Dog parks are a great, low cost way to exercise your pet and encourage socialization. Socializing your dog from a young age can reduce many behavior problems, not the least of which is dog aggression. Dog parks also offer a great opportunity to practice off-leash training with lots of distractions. Check out one of these dog parks in Oakland County and surrounding areas. If the dog park isn't for you, check out our calendar for private doggie play dates near you.
Many of these have small dog areas. If you have a small dog, keep him safe and in the small dog area!
Lyon Oaks Dog Park
Features a 13-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area; with benches, shelter and picnic tables, and water fountain
52221 Pontiac Trail
Wixom, MI 48393
Park Information 248.437.7345
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required
Orion Oaks Dog Park
Offers 14-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area, including two trails, water, field area, new parking lot; and access to Lake Sixteen for swimming (sorry, dogs only!). Please note that restrooms are under construction. The planned reopening is early January.
2301 Clarkston Road
Lake Orion, MI 48360
Park Information: 248.858.0906 or 248.625.0877
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required.
Clinton Township Civic Center Dog Park
40700 Romeo Plank Road
Clinton Township
Information: 586-286-9336
Clinton Township residents may use the park for free.
Behnke Memorial Dog Park
A one-acre dog park located inside Memorial Park in Mount Clemens. The park features a people/pet drinking fountain, bio-bag disposal and cleanup stations, faux fire hydrant, trees, benches, and a tire obstacle course.
300 N Groesbeck Highway
Mount Clemens
Open 7am to 11pm
Northville Dog Park System
Residents must attend an education session to be eligable to bring their dogs to Northville's two dogparks.
Cady Street Dog Park
215 W Cady Street
Northville residents only
Community Dog Park
Five Mile Road West of Beck
Open to non-residents
Information: 248-349-0203
In Burdi Park at Pauline Street & 12 Mile Road
Warren
Information:
Karner Farm Off Leash Dog Area
5911 Halstead Road
West Bloomfield
Information: 248-451-1900
Canine to Five Indoor Dog Park
3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit
313-831-3647
http://www.caninetofivedetroit.com/dogpark.php
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
The Economic Crisis Hits Animals Too
We see evidence of the home foreclosure crisis everywhere. There are few blocks in Michigan without multiple "For Sale" signs in front of them and most of us know someone who can't sell their house even though they may have moved out of state in search of work months ago. Foreclosures hit pets too. 18 cats and a dog were recently found in a Grand Blanc storage unit because. Their owner's home was foreclosed and, she says, she had noplace else to keep them. The cats had upper respiratory infections and every one was euthanized, but the dog, Leo, is now up for adoption. The owner agreed to surrender him to animal control to avoid criminal charges, but she wants him back so he can come live with her and her son. In their car.
Many shelters are overcrowded due in part to the economic crisis and even purebreds are being surrendered or abandoned by once-loving owners who can no longer afford to care for them and many shelters are no overcrowded. The Humane Society is over capacy with cats and at capacity with dogs and as this article illustrates, financial hardship of their previous owners is a major contributor to the situation.
The Oakland Pet Adoption Center, located at 1700 Brown Road in Auburn Hills has more cats than it can handle and its foster homes are also overcrowded. They are desperate need of supply donations and foster homes for cats and kittens especially. They have greatly reduced adoption fees and held many recent promotional events in an effort to help alleviate the overcrowding. Residents of Oakland County are encouraged to contact the Oakland Pet Fund to find out how they can help through volunteering and donations.
Many shelters are overcrowded due in part to the economic crisis and even purebreds are being surrendered or abandoned by once-loving owners who can no longer afford to care for them and many shelters are no overcrowded. The Humane Society is over capacy with cats and at capacity with dogs and as this article illustrates, financial hardship of their previous owners is a major contributor to the situation.
The Oakland Pet Adoption Center, located at 1700 Brown Road in Auburn Hills has more cats than it can handle and its foster homes are also overcrowded. They are desperate need of supply donations and foster homes for cats and kittens especially. They have greatly reduced adoption fees and held many recent promotional events in an effort to help alleviate the overcrowding. Residents of Oakland County are encouraged to contact the Oakland Pet Fund to find out how they can help through volunteering and donations.
My Dog is a Potty Mouth
All About Copraphagy
(That is, poop-eating.)
Why they do it
There are a number of triggers that can drive a dog to munch on poo. As with many behavioral problems, this one warrants a trip to the vet. One of the least common, but worth concern, is a B-vitamin deficit. This is easy enough to address, just make sure your dog is getting a good multi-vitamin with B-complex in it. Dogs may also take to poop-eating if they are lacking certain digestive enzymes. Your vet can prescribe medication to address this problem.
Any medical problem that causes blood to be shed in feces will make that feces more attractive to a poop-eating dog. Bring in a sample of the feces that your dog finds delectable (whether its his own or someone else's) so your vet can rule out parasites and other issues.
Some dogs resort to copraphagy when they are simply hungry. In this case, reassessing the amount of food your pet gets or switching up his feeding schedule may solve the problem. Pay attention to when the behavior happens most often compared to your dog's feeding schedule.
Does she get fed in the morning and eat poo on her evening romp? Maybe she needs an afternoon snack. You could split her total food intake between morning and evening or adjust the amount she's getting fed. Growing pups may need their food intake re-evaluated frequently. Sometimes changing your brand of dogfood helps as well. Many commercial dogfoods (even some that market themselves as being "high end") are really quite terrible for dogs and wreak all sorts of havok on their digestive systems which can lead to many issues, but that's an article for another day. Talk to your vet about the best food foryour dog.
Occasionally, when a dog is improperly house trained, he can make the connection between feces in his vicinity and being punished. He may then eat the feces the minute it's noticed (or produced) in order to prevent the punishment he fears will follow.
Once a dog discovers that eating poo gets a reaction from you, he may do it just for the joy of watching you say "Eww Fido! That's gross!". It is important to address the behavior with a quick leash correction and a firm "No" without getting all excited about it. Or better yet, distract your dog the moment he shows interest in the poo so that it never becomes an issue.
Some dogs simply eat poo- and couches- and other things - out of boredom or anxiety.
A dog that is left in a confined area for an extended period of time and not cleaned up after regularly may eat his or her own poo in order to keep his living area clean. Forcing a dog to live in his own poo can cause all sorts of psychological issues.
Steps to eliminate Copraphagy:
1. Take your dog to the vet along with a sample of the stool he finds most tasty (his own, the cat's, the other dog's, etc.).
2. Make sure your dog is on a nutritionally balanced diet. Talk to your vet about vitamin supplements and feeding schedules.
3. Make sure your dog has plenty of yummy bones and bully treats, maybe a Kong and a Twist n Treat or Tug a Jug to keep him occupied when you can't entertain him. And make sure he gets plenty of exercise to relieve stress and to encourage him to nap instead of being bored.
4. Keep your dog's potty area clean and make sure his potty area and his living area are not the same.
5. If your dog makes a move toward a poopy snack, move away at a brisk pace and run him through some tricks with plenty of treats to get his mind off of it.
Supportive products
The following products claim to make poop taste bad (implying that it tastes good?) therefore discouraging dogs from eating it. I have found, however, that what works for one dog doesn't work for most dogs and what works for most dogs doesn't work for mine! So give these a shot and let me know how they work.
Potty Mouth by Four Paws
8in1 Deter - Coprophagia Treatment
and
For-Bid
You can also try adding pumpkin or meat tenderizer to your dog's food but watch the sodium content. The main ingredient in the meat tenderizer and most of the commercial poo-flavoring food additives is MSG. You could also go out and put a few drops of Tabasco on all the poo in the yard before letting him out. This will teach him that eating poo runs the risk of an uncomfortable burning sensation, and may put a stop to it.
When to Leave it Alone
Female dogs naturally eat the feces of their pups while they are in the nest. If this is the case of your dog, leave her be. If the habit continues after the pups have left the nest, you can address it then.
Have you had this problem with your dog? Let us know what you did about it.
(That is, poop-eating.)
Why they do it
There are a number of triggers that can drive a dog to munch on poo. As with many behavioral problems, this one warrants a trip to the vet. One of the least common, but worth concern, is a B-vitamin deficit. This is easy enough to address, just make sure your dog is getting a good multi-vitamin with B-complex in it. Dogs may also take to poop-eating if they are lacking certain digestive enzymes. Your vet can prescribe medication to address this problem.
Any medical problem that causes blood to be shed in feces will make that feces more attractive to a poop-eating dog. Bring in a sample of the feces that your dog finds delectable (whether its his own or someone else's) so your vet can rule out parasites and other issues.
Some dogs resort to copraphagy when they are simply hungry. In this case, reassessing the amount of food your pet gets or switching up his feeding schedule may solve the problem. Pay attention to when the behavior happens most often compared to your dog's feeding schedule.
Does she get fed in the morning and eat poo on her evening romp? Maybe she needs an afternoon snack. You could split her total food intake between morning and evening or adjust the amount she's getting fed. Growing pups may need their food intake re-evaluated frequently. Sometimes changing your brand of dogfood helps as well. Many commercial dogfoods (even some that market themselves as being "high end") are really quite terrible for dogs and wreak all sorts of havok on their digestive systems which can lead to many issues, but that's an article for another day. Talk to your vet about the best food foryour dog.
Occasionally, when a dog is improperly house trained, he can make the connection between feces in his vicinity and being punished. He may then eat the feces the minute it's noticed (or produced) in order to prevent the punishment he fears will follow.
Once a dog discovers that eating poo gets a reaction from you, he may do it just for the joy of watching you say "Eww Fido! That's gross!". It is important to address the behavior with a quick leash correction and a firm "No" without getting all excited about it. Or better yet, distract your dog the moment he shows interest in the poo so that it never becomes an issue.
Some dogs simply eat poo- and couches- and other things - out of boredom or anxiety.
A dog that is left in a confined area for an extended period of time and not cleaned up after regularly may eat his or her own poo in order to keep his living area clean. Forcing a dog to live in his own poo can cause all sorts of psychological issues.
Steps to eliminate Copraphagy:
1. Take your dog to the vet along with a sample of the stool he finds most tasty (his own, the cat's, the other dog's, etc.).
2. Make sure your dog is on a nutritionally balanced diet. Talk to your vet about vitamin supplements and feeding schedules.
3. Make sure your dog has plenty of yummy bones and bully treats, maybe a Kong and a Twist n Treat or Tug a Jug to keep him occupied when you can't entertain him. And make sure he gets plenty of exercise to relieve stress and to encourage him to nap instead of being bored.
4. Keep your dog's potty area clean and make sure his potty area and his living area are not the same.
5. If your dog makes a move toward a poopy snack, move away at a brisk pace and run him through some tricks with plenty of treats to get his mind off of it.
Supportive products
The following products claim to make poop taste bad (implying that it tastes good?) therefore discouraging dogs from eating it. I have found, however, that what works for one dog doesn't work for most dogs and what works for most dogs doesn't work for mine! So give these a shot and let me know how they work.
Potty Mouth by Four Paws
8in1 Deter - Coprophagia Treatment
and
For-Bid
You can also try adding pumpkin or meat tenderizer to your dog's food but watch the sodium content. The main ingredient in the meat tenderizer and most of the commercial poo-flavoring food additives is MSG. You could also go out and put a few drops of Tabasco on all the poo in the yard before letting him out. This will teach him that eating poo runs the risk of an uncomfortable burning sensation, and may put a stop to it.
When to Leave it Alone
Female dogs naturally eat the feces of their pups while they are in the nest. If this is the case of your dog, leave her be. If the habit continues after the pups have left the nest, you can address it then.
Have you had this problem with your dog? Let us know what you did about it.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Crate Training without Trauma
Crate training is a somewhat controversial topic among some pet owners. There are those who feel that it is cruel to lock a dog in a cage. But crate training actually satisfies a dog's instinctive desire to find a safe, enclosed place to spend time. Many people who crate train their dogs soon find that their companion goes to his crate on his own when he is nervous or frightened or just wants to relax away from the people for awhile. For each one of these though, there is a dog who is terrified of his crate, who fights while going in and spends the entire time inside it trying to get out. With proper training even these dogs can come to see their crate as a safe haven.
The Benefits of Crate Training
Crate training has many benefits. Providing your dog with his own den retreat gives him a haven in times of stress. This can prevent or help lesson many behaviors related to anxiety. A dog who is kept in his crate when his human pack is not at home is less prone to separation anxiety and will not get into trouble while they are gone. A dog who is crated in the car will not disturb you while you are driving and is less likely to be harmed in case of an accident than a dog who is not crated and once you get to your destination, the crate becomes a safe haven for your dog in an possibly unfamiliar situation. Since dogs instinctively urinate and defecate away from their den area, a do who is crate trained is also easier to housebreak.
But My Dog Hates His Crate
The trick to successfully crate training a dog is to associate the crate with positive feelings rather than negative ones. If a dog is forced into a crate, sent there as a punishment, left there for long periods of time and picked on (perhaps by mischievous children) while he is in the crate, the dog is not going to like his crate. If the crate is too small or located in a drafty area or isolated from the rest of the household, he's also not going to like it. If scary things happen every time he's put in the crate- he's put in the back of the car, he's left alone, someone makes loud noises, strangers come over, etc. he's not going to like his crate. All of these things can happen to a well crate trained dog, but they can't be the only things that happen. Good things must happen to. Unfortunately, it often takes just one early experience to ruin a crate for a dog and a lot of work to make a dog who hates his crate love it again.
Your Dog Can Love His Crate
If you got your dog from a shelter or a pet store he has probably already spent some time in a crate and he may be used to it, or he may have developed negative associations with it already. Whatever the case, your dog can come to love his crate pretty quickly if you follow these basic guidelines.
Choose the right crate. The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up and sit down (note that many dogs are a bit taller when they sit) and turn around and lay down in. A crate that is too big doesn't give that den-like feeling and a crate that is too small will leave you with a stiff, unhappy dog. If you're dog is a puppy, you may wish to get a crate that will be big enough for him when he is full grown. Many larger crates come with dividers so that you can section off a small portion of the crate for your puppy and make it larger as he grows. If you put your small dog in a giant crate during the day, you should still train him to a smaller traveling crate which you can place inside the larger crate while you are at home. You may choose to use a wire crate or a plastic crate. If you use a wire crate, you may wish to put a blanket or other cover over it to give it a more den-like quality. If your dog tears at this blanket, remove it. You should also invest in food dishes and water bottles that fasten to the crate itself.
Place the crate in a comfortable spot. Once your dog is used to his crate you can move it about the house as you please but to start it should be in a place where you spend time, not removed from the household. The spot should not be in direct sunlight or right over a heating vent and it should be well ventilated, but not drafty.
Introduce the crate in a unhurried, pleasant way. The first time your dog goes in the crate should not be the first time you leave him alone for the day. Introduce the crate on a day when you can spend some time on it.
Establish firm rules relating to the crate. Let everyone in the household and all visitors know that when the dog is in the crate he must not be bothered. No banging on the crate, no running back and forth past the crate and no poking the dog through the crate; though it is okay to occasionally toss a treat into the crate.
Be patient while your dog gets used to his crate. Follow the steps below to make your dog love his crate.
To Crate Train Your Dog
It will take 3-5 days to train your dog to love his crate. If you must leave him alone in the house before he is ready, consider taking him with you, having someone dog-sit or taking him to doggie day care or Camp BowWow for the day to avoid his making negative associations with the crate before the positive associations are firmly in place.
Exercise 1 "Go in your crate"
After he goes into his crate easily, close the door of the crate before giving him the treat, then open it up again right away.
Exercise 2 "Eat in your crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging.
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging. This should be done between feedings in conjunction with exercise 2.
Exercise 3 "Stay in your Crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog is happily chewing in his crate with the door open.
Some Crate Training Tips
If your dog is freaking out in his crate; barking, howling, whimpering, etc. wait until he is quiet (even if it's just a split second while he's catching his breath) before you open the door- but let him out as soon as you can. Don't talk to him in the meantime, just ignore him. We don't want him to get the idea that he'll be rewarded for whining but we also don't want him to panic in his crate!
If your dog is soiling his crate out of spite or anxiety (versus out of desperation because he wasn't taken out to potty on time) check to make sure the crate isn't too big. It should be just big enough for him to stand up, sit, turn around and lay down in. If it's the right size, remove any bedding. Most dogs don't like lying in their own urine and feces. If there's bedding they can hide it underneath and lay on top. Once he's happier in his crate you can give him his bedding back.
The Benefits of Crate Training
Crate training has many benefits. Providing your dog with his own den retreat gives him a haven in times of stress. This can prevent or help lesson many behaviors related to anxiety. A dog who is kept in his crate when his human pack is not at home is less prone to separation anxiety and will not get into trouble while they are gone. A dog who is crated in the car will not disturb you while you are driving and is less likely to be harmed in case of an accident than a dog who is not crated and once you get to your destination, the crate becomes a safe haven for your dog in an possibly unfamiliar situation. Since dogs instinctively urinate and defecate away from their den area, a do who is crate trained is also easier to housebreak.
But My Dog Hates His Crate
The trick to successfully crate training a dog is to associate the crate with positive feelings rather than negative ones. If a dog is forced into a crate, sent there as a punishment, left there for long periods of time and picked on (perhaps by mischievous children) while he is in the crate, the dog is not going to like his crate. If the crate is too small or located in a drafty area or isolated from the rest of the household, he's also not going to like it. If scary things happen every time he's put in the crate- he's put in the back of the car, he's left alone, someone makes loud noises, strangers come over, etc. he's not going to like his crate. All of these things can happen to a well crate trained dog, but they can't be the only things that happen. Good things must happen to. Unfortunately, it often takes just one early experience to ruin a crate for a dog and a lot of work to make a dog who hates his crate love it again.
Your Dog Can Love His Crate
If you got your dog from a shelter or a pet store he has probably already spent some time in a crate and he may be used to it, or he may have developed negative associations with it already. Whatever the case, your dog can come to love his crate pretty quickly if you follow these basic guidelines.
Choose the right crate. The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up and sit down (note that many dogs are a bit taller when they sit) and turn around and lay down in. A crate that is too big doesn't give that den-like feeling and a crate that is too small will leave you with a stiff, unhappy dog. If you're dog is a puppy, you may wish to get a crate that will be big enough for him when he is full grown. Many larger crates come with dividers so that you can section off a small portion of the crate for your puppy and make it larger as he grows. If you put your small dog in a giant crate during the day, you should still train him to a smaller traveling crate which you can place inside the larger crate while you are at home. You may choose to use a wire crate or a plastic crate. If you use a wire crate, you may wish to put a blanket or other cover over it to give it a more den-like quality. If your dog tears at this blanket, remove it. You should also invest in food dishes and water bottles that fasten to the crate itself.
Place the crate in a comfortable spot. Once your dog is used to his crate you can move it about the house as you please but to start it should be in a place where you spend time, not removed from the household. The spot should not be in direct sunlight or right over a heating vent and it should be well ventilated, but not drafty.
Introduce the crate in a unhurried, pleasant way. The first time your dog goes in the crate should not be the first time you leave him alone for the day. Introduce the crate on a day when you can spend some time on it.
Establish firm rules relating to the crate. Let everyone in the household and all visitors know that when the dog is in the crate he must not be bothered. No banging on the crate, no running back and forth past the crate and no poking the dog through the crate; though it is okay to occasionally toss a treat into the crate.
Be patient while your dog gets used to his crate. Follow the steps below to make your dog love his crate.
To Crate Train Your Dog
It will take 3-5 days to train your dog to love his crate. If you must leave him alone in the house before he is ready, consider taking him with you, having someone dog-sit or taking him to doggie day care or Camp BowWow for the day to avoid his making negative associations with the crate before the positive associations are firmly in place.
Exercise 1 "Go in your crate"
- Allow your dog to skip a meal so he's good and hungry. Have his usual amount of dog food on hand to use as a reward and some of his favorite treats.
- Sit on a chair next to the crate. Open it and call the dog to you. Pet him and praise him.
- Toss a treat into the crate and say "Go in your crate". If he hesitates give him a little nudge in the rear to get him moving into the crate. If he resists strongly, you may need a better treat.
- As soon as he's in the crate, tell him how wonderful he is while feeding him kibble alternated with treats. When he hops back out, stop feeding him.
- Repeat 10-20 times
- Now say "Go in your crate", but don't throw a treat in there. If he goes in on his own, tell him how wonderful he is and give him lots of his favorite treats. If he doesn't, give him a nudge and then praise and treat him. If he still doesn't go in on his own, go back to the beginning and repeat 10-20 times then end the game and start over at your next session.
- Repeat 10-20 times
- By now your dog is probably close to full and you're both probably a little tired so take a break.
After he goes into his crate easily, close the door of the crate before giving him the treat, then open it up again right away.
Exercise 2 "Eat in your crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging.
- Fasten a food bowl to the inside of the crate. At feeding time each day, fill the food dish while your dog watches. Make him sit and stay until you are done placing it inside the crate then tell your dog to "go in your crate". When he goes in, praise him and let him enjoy his meal. If he refuses to go into his crate to eat his food, try adding a bit of warm water to it.
- Let him have his food for fifteen minutes while you linger nearby doing whatever you do.
- After 15 minutes, regardless of whether he has eaten remove the food. Some dogs will resist eating in the crate at first. Don't worry, he won't let himself starve. Simply take the food away and try again at his next scheduled feeding. Leave the crate open between meals so he can relax in it at his leisure.
- Repeat at every feeding until he is eating normally, then close the door with him inside for the 15 minutes he is eating rather than leaving it open. Feed your dog this way forever after. (This is especially helpful if you have multiple dogs or a toddler running around!)
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging. This should be done between feedings in conjunction with exercise 2.
- Find a chew your dog just loves. I recommend bully sticks and smoked knuckle bones which are particularly good for this because they stink and you probably don't want him running around the house with them. You can also use a Kong if you prefer. Let your dog sniff the chew and then toss it in his crate.
- Tell your dog "Go in your crate"
- When he goes in don't praise him till he starts working on his chew, then tell him how great he is.
- If he brings the chew out of his crate, toss it back in. If it starts becoming a fetch game, take it away and try again later.
- Now, forever after, your dog never gets a chewy (or Kong) unless he is in his crate! If he goes to his crate on his own and looks up at you expectantly, praise him and give him his chewy. Don't be afraid to mix it up if there's more than one kind of chewy he really likes or give him a bully stick or smoked knuckle bone one day, a Kong the next, a Twist & Treat once in awhile, etc. The idea is that you're giving something he's going to enjoy that will last him awhile.
Exercise 3 "Stay in your Crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog is happily chewing in his crate with the door open.
- Tell your dog "Go in your crate" and give him the chewy (or Kong) once he is in there.
- Close the door.
- Leave the door closed for 10 minutes or so regardless of his protestations (he'll probably start grumbling after he gets bored with his chewy, realize he's being ignored and lay down for a nap. )
- After the designated time, open the door in a matter of fact way, don't fuss or praise him as he comes out of the crate. Remove his chewy or toy from the crate and put it away. He only gets it when the door is closed now and forever!
- Repeat 3-4 times a day. If 20 minutes isn't a problem, leave him for 30, then 45, then an hour.
Some Crate Training Tips
If your dog is freaking out in his crate; barking, howling, whimpering, etc. wait until he is quiet (even if it's just a split second while he's catching his breath) before you open the door- but let him out as soon as you can. Don't talk to him in the meantime, just ignore him. We don't want him to get the idea that he'll be rewarded for whining but we also don't want him to panic in his crate!
If your dog is soiling his crate out of spite or anxiety (versus out of desperation because he wasn't taken out to potty on time) check to make sure the crate isn't too big. It should be just big enough for him to stand up, sit, turn around and lay down in. If it's the right size, remove any bedding. Most dogs don't like lying in their own urine and feces. If there's bedding they can hide it underneath and lay on top. Once he's happier in his crate you can give him his bedding back.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Help! My Dog is Hyper!
If your dog is literally bouncing off the walls and furniture instead of paying attention during training time, you may despair of ever teaching him anything! If he's jumping all over everything and everybody, you may be afraid he'll hurt himself or a family member and your fear is not misplaced. Hyperactivity can segue into aggression very easily. While some dogs are just a little high energy, especially as puppies, there are many things you can do to bring him down to Earth. Chances are your puppy will settle down by the time he's two years old but some breeds are hyper for life.
Exercise
Most dogs do not get enough exercise and many breeds, such as herding dogs and hunting dogs, were bred to be able to withstand long days of vigorous physical activity. If they don't get that exercise through work and play, they may release it through obnoxious behavior instead. Eventually, they may "grow out" of the hyperactivity by gaining a bunch of weight and slowing down just like overweight people do but this isn't good for your dog. Just like people, excess weight is hard on the dog's heart and other organs and joints. To ensure that your dog gets enough exercise, take him for a brisk walk at least once a day and take him to the park for a long game of catch at least once a week. You may also wish to join a Meetup Group that will allow you and your dog to get together with other dogs and their owners for socialization and exercise. No human can exercise a dog as well as another dog can!
If your dog is stuck in the house all day while you're at work, consider leaving him at Camp BowWow or at PetSmart's Doggie DayCamp once or twice a week (or every day!). When you pick him up at the end of the day he'll be tired and happy and frequent trips to fun places like that will help get rid of any car anxiety your dog might have.
On those days that your dog isn't at day camp, provide him with lots of distractions to keep him busy. A Kong, stuffed with wet dogfood, ground meat or another delicious treat will keep him busy for awhile. A Twist and Treat full of kibble or dog biscuits will keep him occupied for a bit as well and the Tug A Jug is also a neat way to keep your dog busy and fed all at once. Don't be afraid to feed him all of his meals out of these toys. Hide them around his play area so he can make a game out of locating his lunch.
Hyper active dogs also tend to chew a lot. Some owners complain that they chew through their bones and toys so fast it hardly seems worth it to buy them. Pressed rawhide lasts a little longer, but it can come off in chunks that can get stuck in your dog's gut causing painful (and deadly!) blockages. (This is rare, but possible) I recommend Bully Sticks. They last awhile, they're completely edible and digestible and uh... they smell horrible. Dogs love them. I also recommend smoked knuckle bones. They don't splinter like long bones do, they last awhile, they also stink and dogs love them. Griffin gets either a Bully Stick or a knuckle bone at bedtime and it helps him relax.
Diet
Just like a child, a dog's behavior can be affected by what he eats. Not all dogs have issues, but some dogs are very sensitive to carbohydrates and sugars in their food and some artificial colorings and flavors have been blamed for causing hyperactivity as well. If you think this may be a problem, try switching your dog to an all natural food like Wellness or Canidae or even a grain free dog food like Raw Instinct, or Core. Some people prefer to prepare their dog's food themselves and this is a great option if you have the time and you do the research to make sure your dog is getting the nutrition he needs. Sodium can also affect your dog's activity level. Make sure you don't give your dog "people food" full of salt, such as potato chips, french fries and packaged food. It's not good for you either!
Training
Many times a dog's hyperactivity issues are cries for attention (just like kids) and giving him something to do will help out a great deal. Basic training is important, and you can get that at www.betterdog.com (If you're in Michigan, ask for Robin!) or you could take classes. Remember though, whether you get lessons at home or in a classroom, you must practice every day if you want your dog to actually learn. Even 15 minutes a day will bring about a huge improvement. Besides obedience, hyper dogs love to learn new tricks. Try 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
for ideas.
Health
Hyperactivity can be caused by health problems, particularly related to the thyroid. Be sure to check with your vet and have a blood test done on your dog to make sure that there isn't a correctable physical problem causing his issues.
Exercise
Most dogs do not get enough exercise and many breeds, such as herding dogs and hunting dogs, were bred to be able to withstand long days of vigorous physical activity. If they don't get that exercise through work and play, they may release it through obnoxious behavior instead. Eventually, they may "grow out" of the hyperactivity by gaining a bunch of weight and slowing down just like overweight people do but this isn't good for your dog. Just like people, excess weight is hard on the dog's heart and other organs and joints. To ensure that your dog gets enough exercise, take him for a brisk walk at least once a day and take him to the park for a long game of catch at least once a week. You may also wish to join a Meetup Group that will allow you and your dog to get together with other dogs and their owners for socialization and exercise. No human can exercise a dog as well as another dog can!
If your dog is stuck in the house all day while you're at work, consider leaving him at Camp BowWow or at PetSmart's Doggie DayCamp once or twice a week (or every day!). When you pick him up at the end of the day he'll be tired and happy and frequent trips to fun places like that will help get rid of any car anxiety your dog might have.
On those days that your dog isn't at day camp, provide him with lots of distractions to keep him busy. A Kong, stuffed with wet dogfood, ground meat or another delicious treat will keep him busy for awhile. A Twist and Treat full of kibble or dog biscuits will keep him occupied for a bit as well and the Tug A Jug is also a neat way to keep your dog busy and fed all at once. Don't be afraid to feed him all of his meals out of these toys. Hide them around his play area so he can make a game out of locating his lunch.
Hyper active dogs also tend to chew a lot. Some owners complain that they chew through their bones and toys so fast it hardly seems worth it to buy them. Pressed rawhide lasts a little longer, but it can come off in chunks that can get stuck in your dog's gut causing painful (and deadly!) blockages. (This is rare, but possible) I recommend Bully Sticks. They last awhile, they're completely edible and digestible and uh... they smell horrible. Dogs love them. I also recommend smoked knuckle bones. They don't splinter like long bones do, they last awhile, they also stink and dogs love them. Griffin gets either a Bully Stick or a knuckle bone at bedtime and it helps him relax.
Diet
Just like a child, a dog's behavior can be affected by what he eats. Not all dogs have issues, but some dogs are very sensitive to carbohydrates and sugars in their food and some artificial colorings and flavors have been blamed for causing hyperactivity as well. If you think this may be a problem, try switching your dog to an all natural food like Wellness or Canidae or even a grain free dog food like Raw Instinct, or Core. Some people prefer to prepare their dog's food themselves and this is a great option if you have the time and you do the research to make sure your dog is getting the nutrition he needs. Sodium can also affect your dog's activity level. Make sure you don't give your dog "people food" full of salt, such as potato chips, french fries and packaged food. It's not good for you either!
Training
Many times a dog's hyperactivity issues are cries for attention (just like kids) and giving him something to do will help out a great deal. Basic training is important, and you can get that at www.betterdog.com (If you're in Michigan, ask for Robin!) or you could take classes. Remember though, whether you get lessons at home or in a classroom, you must practice every day if you want your dog to actually learn. Even 15 minutes a day will bring about a huge improvement. Besides obedience, hyper dogs love to learn new tricks. Try 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
for ideas.Health
Hyperactivity can be caused by health problems, particularly related to the thyroid. Be sure to check with your vet and have a blood test done on your dog to make sure that there isn't a correctable physical problem causing his issues.
Monday, October 6, 2008
Dogs in the News
The Top doggie news today is the release of Beverly Hills Chihuahua which seems to be making a smash at the box office. I might go see this at the cheap theatre in a couple of weeks,but no one in my family is excited enough to pay premium movie prices for it. It looks cute.
In other show biz/doggie news, Nick at Nite hosted their first annual Fido Awards yesterday with a bulldog named Gabe winning the day with such remarkable tricks as toilet flushing and skate boarding. Buddy, the German Shepherd to dialed 911 when his owner had a seizure just a few months ago was given the Hero Award.
A golden retriever named Pepper found his way home this weekend after travelling 400 miles from Atlanta Georgia to St Petersburg (Virginia??) where he was taken in by some folks at a travel agency, vetted and scanned and his microchip discovered. He's been gone since Christmas.
It reminds me of a dog named Chile who we discovered in our back yard when we moved into our new house two years ago. Once we'd calmed him down enough so that we could handle him, we walked him to the vet 3 miles away because there was no getting him in the car. Sure enough, he was microchipped and his family was ecstatic and so was he! He'd been missing three months and had travelled over 50 miles.
The moral of this story, folks: Have your dogs microchipped!
In other show biz/doggie news, Nick at Nite hosted their first annual Fido Awards yesterday with a bulldog named Gabe winning the day with such remarkable tricks as toilet flushing and skate boarding. Buddy, the German Shepherd to dialed 911 when his owner had a seizure just a few months ago was given the Hero Award.
A golden retriever named Pepper found his way home this weekend after travelling 400 miles from Atlanta Georgia to St Petersburg (Virginia??) where he was taken in by some folks at a travel agency, vetted and scanned and his microchip discovered. He's been gone since Christmas.
It reminds me of a dog named Chile who we discovered in our back yard when we moved into our new house two years ago. Once we'd calmed him down enough so that we could handle him, we walked him to the vet 3 miles away because there was no getting him in the car. Sure enough, he was microchipped and his family was ecstatic and so was he! He'd been missing three months and had travelled over 50 miles.
The moral of this story, folks: Have your dogs microchipped!
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Bring Your Dog to Church Day
A church in North Weymouth, Massechusettes is opening its doors to dogs and other pets and is offering a blessing of animals today. According to an article in the Boston Globe, the Reverend Rachel Bickford, herself the mom of a menagere of furbabies, was inspired by psalm 148 and 150 which says 'Let all wild animals, creeping things and flying birds give God praise.' and 'Praise the Lord, let everything that breathes, praise the Lord.' respectively.
Apparently inviting dogs to church isn't as easy as it sounds. The insurance company originally forbid the attendance of pitbulls, but Rev Bickford was able to change their minds by showing them a little more green.
Apparently inviting dogs to church isn't as easy as it sounds. The insurance company originally forbid the attendance of pitbulls, but Rev Bickford was able to change their minds by showing them a little more green.
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