http://www.thegooddogjournal.com/2011/01/treat-abcs.htmlChances are you've attended an obedience course or two and you and your dog have practiced the "stay" command in sit and down, and possibly even in the stand position. Your dog probably stays quite well in a controlled practice situation without alot of distractions. But what happens if you walk away, or someone else leaves the room or you pet's favorite toy suddenly rolls off the table onto the floor? Every time your dog breaks a stay he learns that it's okay and even fun. Stay is boring, greeting newcomers, following you to see what you're up to or pouncing on a toy is probably alot more rewarding to him. But you can make "stay" more interesting by making it a game.
Game 1 I'll be Right Back
This game assumes that your dog already knows the "stay" command and can stay reasonably well if you are standing right in front of him or walk a few feet away. This game works best with dogs who are food motivated.
The set up: Let your dog follow you around as you place several small containers or piles of tasty treats out of his reach around the room. Three or four spots will do. For example if you're in the living room put a small pile of treats on a window, one on the mantle, one on the book shelf and one on the top of the TV stand. Each pile should contain a 3-5 treats. (If your dog is very food motivated you may need to start with less interesting treats in the beginning or he may find it too hard to focus on his stay. You can add more interesting treats later (See Treat ABCs) once he gets the hang of it.)
The Rules: Your dog must sit (or down or stand) and stay while you retrieve treats from around the room to bring to him one at a time. If he gets up, he forfeits his treat and you start over from the beginning. If he stays in position, he gets a treat.
Game Play: Call your dog over to you and have him sit, stand or lay down and tell him to stay. Once he is in position and the command has been given move to the nearest treat stash, pick up a treat, return to him and give him your reward marker and his treat. Remind him to stay and then move to the next treat stash and repeat. Once you've gone through all the treat stashes, give him the release command while you are right in front of him and tell him what an awesome dog he is.
If your dog breaks his stay during his this game, give him the no reward marker and return to him quickly. If you already have a treat in your hand, slip it into your pocket. He does not get this treat. You may return it to the pile on your next trip. Return him to his original position, repeat the stay command and proceed with the game.
For beginners: The first few times you play this game, place all the treat piles on one side of the room and have your dog stay facing that side of the room so you don't have to go around behind him. Back away from your dog toward the treat stash maintaining eye contact at all times. Once he gets the hang of it, you can start turning your back on him, glancing over your shoulder frequently to let him know you're still watching.
Intermediate Level: Place treats all around the room so the you have to walk around behind him and off to the side to retrieve them. Turn your back as you walk away but keep your ears open for the sound of him breaking his stay! Move around the room at a steady, confident pace. You do not have to take a direct route to the treats.
Advanced Level: Place treats in other rooms as well so that you have to leave the room to retrieve some of them. Keep your ears open for the sound of him breaking his stay and get back to him quickly. Increase your pace around the room. Get the kids involved and have them run to grab the treats and back to deliver them.
Trouble Shooting: If at any level you find your dog is breaking his stay more than three times in a row, go back to the previous level, even if he has performed successfully at this level before. If he still has trouble, make him perform a very basic stay for about 10 to 20 seconds and reward that so you can end on a positive note. Move on to something else or relax for awhile and try again.
If your dog just doesn't get the whole "stay while I fetch the treat" thing, call in a second person to help. The second person should stand next to your dog and have a hold of his leash while you go off slowly to fetch the treats. If your dog breaks his stay, you freeze while the second person gives the no reward marker and re-establishes the stay. Once your dog is back in position, unfreeze and continue. Repeat. He'll get it.
Game 2: Don't Fetch Just Yet
This game works best for dogs who love balls and assumes that your dog already has the basic idea of "fetch" and enjoys it. It is a valuable game to play with ball obsessed dogs to help them learn to help them contain the mania a bit. If your dog prefers to fetch another toy, such as a Frisbee or a dumbbell, feel free to use that instead of a ball.
The Setup: All you need is your dog, a leash and a ball. If your dog isn't good at retrieving or releasing the ball, you may need a second ball or a pocket full of treats to help him along. This an all off leash games should only be played in a secure fenced area or indoors.
The Rules: Your dog must sit and stay before you throw the ball. Then he must continue to sit and stay until you release him to chase the ball.
Game Play: Call your dog over and have him sit and stay. Hold the leash firmly and make sure you have a wide, firm stance, especially if your dog is large and you are small. Now toss the ball gently, underhand, in the direction your dog is facing. If he dashes after the ball, use the leash to restrain him and put him back into his sit/stay position. Keep him there for about five seconds, then release him and say "Go get it!" (or "fetch" or whatever) in an excited voice. Once he gets the ball, call him to return to you. Then give him the drop command or trade the ball for a treat. Repeat until you're beat. It usually only takes 3 or 4 repetitions before the dog gets the "you can't get the ball till I release you" thing.
Beginner: Always throw the ball in the direction your dog is facing, never off to the side or over his head. Begin with a gentle roll and advance to farther and higher throws.
Intermediate: Throw the ball off to the side.
Advanced: Throw the ball over your dog's head and behind him.
Trouble Shooting: If at any time your dog seems to have forgotten the rules, go back a step and work your way up again, even if your dog has performed well at this level before.
Some dogs will forget they ever wanted to fetch the ball in the first place if you make them stay too long. Keep the stays short at first and gradually increase them. Once your dog is staying long enough to forget all about the ball, it's not a game anymore so why do it?
For very large and powerful dogs, you may want to have one person control the dog while the other throws the ball the first few times to avoid dislocated shoulders.
Game 3: Stay While I Take This
This dog works best for toy motivated dogs. In addition to strengthening stay, this game also strengthens retrieval skills, builds impulse control and provides a great deal of mental stimulation.
The Setup: You will need a toy your dog likes quite well. His favorite toy might be too much of a distraction at first, depending on how focused he is on it. The first few times you play this game you may want to have a second person holding your dog on a leash until he learns the rules. A pocketful of treats is always helpful.
The Rules: Your dog must stay while you hide his toy.Once the toy is hidden, you will return to your dog's side and release him to go find it.
Game Play: Have your dog sit, stand or down and stay. Show him the toy. Walk away and hide it. Return to your dog's side. Release him and tell him to go get it in an excited voice. If he has trouble, go along with him cheering him on the whole time. Once he has the toy, ask him to drop it, trading it for a treat every 3rd or 4th time.
Beginner: Move only a few feet away and "hide" the toy in plain sight. Slide it halfway under the couch, put it on the floor and place a towel over it, etc. Then return to his side and release him. Do not wave the toy around, shake it or squeak it at this level.
Intermediate: Walk into an a-joining room and squeak the toy or drop it heavily on the floor as you place it in plain sight, then return to your dog's side, release him and go along with him to find the toy.
Advanced: Actually hide the toy. You may need to go along with your dog to find it the first few times. Remember to let him now how great he is when he finds it. And be fair- no closed doors, no high shelves or furniture he's not allowed on!
Troubleshooting: At each level you may need to have a second person restrain your dog as you walk off with his favorite toy at first. Once your helper has given the signal that your dog is in position and calm, you can return and release him to go find the toy. He will eventually learn that this is fun game and it all goes better if he follows the rules and you'll be able to send your helper packing, especially if he is rewarded with a treat or, better yet, a quick game of tug or fetch when he returns the toy.
As with all exercises, if find your dog is having trouble at a certain level, back up to a lower level for the day.
If your dog is having trouble finding the toy, go along with him on the search and don't be afraid to give lots of hints (point! Dogs and humans uniquely understand pointing.) Some dogs simply aren't cut out for search and will have more fun digging up what you point at than figuring it out for themselves.
Showing posts with label training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label training. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Thursday, January 6, 2011
Treat ABCs
If your dog is food motivated, using treats as rewards can help you reach your training goals quickly and painlessly. But not all treats are created equal. Sometimes treats are a hindrance, their very presence so distracting that your dog is too concerned with figuring out what's in your pocket to pay attention to the fact that you're talking to him. Some treats are worth sitting for, but maybe not worth doing anything more complicated than that and the treat that was good enough last week might be the same old same old today. Treats must be used wisely and one way to do this is to grade them as many trainers do.
I personally was taught to grade treats as A, B and C with A being the highest value treat and C being the lowest value treat. Here's how it works.
C Treats
C treats are kibble, milk bones and other dry, non-fragrant treats. They are nothing special but, if your dog is hungry, already in the mood to work, or just enjoys working he might work for them. Very food motivated dogs will usually be happy with a C treat in situations where there aren't a lot of distractions.
In short, C treats are for everyday training in a controlled situation with a food motivated dog.
B Treats
B Treats tend to be moister and have more fragrance to them. These are every day treats for dogs who aren't as food motivated and special treats for highly food motivated dogs. Assuming your dog will work for C treats, you can move to B treats when you make things harder or add distractions. If your dog will not work for an C treat, you'll use B treats when teaching something new.
A Treats
A treats are liver, cheese, amazing things. Highly food motivated dogs are likely to lose all self control when these treats are around and should only be given them for things like "come" and "emergency come", otherwise you may have a hard time getting him to focus. For dogs who aren't as food motivated, these treats should be used in high distraction situations. (Though you should always take care when using high value treats in the presence of other animals to avoid food aggression incidents.)
Basic Rules for ALL Treats
Treats used for training should always be very small. Your dog should not be spending time chewing. He only needs a small taste to feel rewarded. As an example, if you use Zuke's Chicken-Flavored Mini Naturals Dog Treats you can cut them into quarters before using them as training treats Milk-Bone Dog Biscuits can be smashed with a hammer.
You must be careful to count your dog's training treats into his daily calories and adjust his daily food rations accordingly. Obesity is a common and dangerous health problem for dogs.
I personally was taught to grade treats as A, B and C with A being the highest value treat and C being the lowest value treat. Here's how it works.
C Treats
C treats are kibble, milk bones and other dry, non-fragrant treats. They are nothing special but, if your dog is hungry, already in the mood to work, or just enjoys working he might work for them. Very food motivated dogs will usually be happy with a C treat in situations where there aren't a lot of distractions.
In short, C treats are for everyday training in a controlled situation with a food motivated dog.
B Treats
B Treats tend to be moister and have more fragrance to them. These are every day treats for dogs who aren't as food motivated and special treats for highly food motivated dogs. Assuming your dog will work for C treats, you can move to B treats when you make things harder or add distractions. If your dog will not work for an C treat, you'll use B treats when teaching something new.
A Treats
A treats are liver, cheese, amazing things. Highly food motivated dogs are likely to lose all self control when these treats are around and should only be given them for things like "come" and "emergency come", otherwise you may have a hard time getting him to focus. For dogs who aren't as food motivated, these treats should be used in high distraction situations. (Though you should always take care when using high value treats in the presence of other animals to avoid food aggression incidents.)
Basic Rules for ALL Treats
Treats used for training should always be very small. Your dog should not be spending time chewing. He only needs a small taste to feel rewarded. As an example, if you use Zuke's Chicken-Flavored Mini Naturals Dog Treats you can cut them into quarters before using them as training treats Milk-Bone Dog Biscuits can be smashed with a hammer.
You must be careful to count your dog's training treats into his daily calories and adjust his daily food rations accordingly. Obesity is a common and dangerous health problem for dogs.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer
Check out this article (written by me) at Examiner. com
Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer
Posted using ShareThis
Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer
Posted using ShareThis
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety is a common problem among young dogs, but it can appear at any time triggered by a change in household or family composition. Dogs with separation anxiety will cry in high pitched yips, like those a puppy would make to get his mother's attention, and may soil his crate or damage property, especially around the door his human left from. It is important to address this issue as soon as possible so that it doesn't become a habit or you risk extensive damage to your property and your dog may hurt himself in his panic.
If your dog is already in the throws of separation anxiety panic and you are scared he'll do serious harm to himself when you're not around, have him spend the day at doggie daycare or Camp BowWow for a week or two until you get this thing under control. Let your dog's caretakers know that separation anxiety is an issue so they don't make the matter worse by giving him extra attention during the day.
Start With The Basics
1. Have your dog checked out by the vet. There are many medical issues that can exacerbate behavioral problems.
2. Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise. You may have to work in a morning walk. It's good for you. Alternatively, you could run him through some obedience practice first thing in the morning and get it out of the way.
3. Check your dog's food and make sure he's not getting sugars and simple carbs that could be making him extra jumpy. Do not share your morning donut or danish with your dog. You shouldn't be eating that stuff either. It goes without saying but caffeine should also not be on his menu.
Teach Your Dog to be Independant
Many small puppies develop hyper attachment and they may grow out of it by the time they are a year old. After all, the world is a very interesting place and you are just a boring human. Some, however, do not grow out of it. Hyper attachment is evident when your dog follows you around, watches you every minute, settles into your lap when you sit down and sleeps on your pillow at night. The more time your dog spends with you when you're around, the more he will miss you when you are gone. If this is your dog, ease him out of this habit. If this isn't your dog yet, follow these steps to make sure it never becomes you dog.
1. Do not let your dog sit on your lap every time you sit down. If he jumps up, tell him no and put him down by your feet. Praise him when he finally settles down. Once he's got this down, encourage him to settle further away. Provide him with a pillow or crate in the corner of the living room and teach him to lay there or place train him and encourage him to relax in his place when you're watching TV together, instead of on your lap.
2. If there are other people in the house or if you have friends that visit frequently, encourage them to help out with the dog's care, take him on walks and put him through his training. This will teach the dog that there are more cool people in the world than just you! Take your dog out to see other people and dogs as well and leave him with a friend once in awhile.
3. Make your dog do things on his own. Do not carry him outside, to his potty pad, crate or place. Teach him to go to his crate or place on command and take him outside on his leash. The more you do things for him and carry him around, the more dependant he will be on you and the worse it will be for him when you're not around.
4. Get your dog some toys he can play with without human intervention, like the Kong, the Twist & Treat, the Tug a Jug or an Intellibone. Give him the toy, tell him he's a good boy when he starts playing with it and then walk away. If he follows you, tell him no, bring him back to the toy and repeat. If this goes on for too long, just put the toy away and try again tomorrow and if that goes on for too long, you may need to try a different toy.
5. Don't let your dog sleep next to you. If you are absolutely heartbroken by the idea of making Rover sleep on the floor, or in another room, you can have him sleep at the foot of the bed, but it will be better for him in the long run if he has his own bed. You can put his bed in his crate and have him sleep there, or put his bed right next to yours. Then if you get lonely in the night you can reach out and pet him. If he's already sleeping in your bed, put his bed on your bed and let him sleep there for a few days before making the transition. Your dog's bed can be as simple as a pillow or a blanket or as elaborate as the GoPro Auxi Empire Series "Prince/Princess" Style Wrought Iron Pet Bed
. Just makes sure it's in a cozy spot out of the way where you won't stagger over him when you get up for a drink in the night.
Create an Interesting and Relaxing Environment
A dog who is shut up in a cold dog pen with a cement floor and no toys every time you go away is going to be miserable and may associate you leaving with the sensation of boredom and discomfort. Make sure that your dog is comfortable with the place he will be left in, that it is warm and cozy and that there is plenty for him to do- besides eat the couch.
1. If your dog is going to be left in a crate or pen, make sure he is used to it before you leave him alone for the first time (See my article on crate training). Teach him to go into it on command and use treats to encourage him to do so. He should have some special treats or bones that he only gets while he's there and it should be comfortable with enough space to turn around in.
2. Once you've got your dog playing independently, choose some toys he really likes and only let him have them when he's home alone. Stuffed animals are not good options because he can tear them up and chew on the stuffing. A Kong is a great option. Get creative. Fill it with all sorts of interesting surprises. You can even hang it from the ceiling to give him more of a challenge.
3. Give him a special treat that he only has when you're not around. It should be something that will last a bit, like a knuckle bone or a bully stick and it should not be something that he can pull chunks off and choke on like a rawhide.
4. If your dog regularly relaxes in front of the TV or listening to music, it may help to leave the radio or TV on. If he doesn't, it won't. He's not going to be fooled into thinking some one's home, but the background noise can be relaxing if he's used to it.
Desensitize.
1. Start out by leaving your dog alone for a few minutes at a time and then returning. Don't make a big deal out of leaving or coming back. Put him in the designated place, make sure he has water, give him his special toy and treat and walk out. Wait five minutes or so and come back. If your dog is freaking out, ignore him until he calms down and then casually release him from his crate or room. Ignore him for a few more minutes and then carry on as if nothing exciting happened. Repeat 3-4 times a day.
2. Desensitize your dog to the scents, sounds and activities that usually take place just before you leave so that these won't trigger a feeling of panic in him. Pick up your keys and put them in your pocket, then sit down instead of leaving. If you have a bell on your door, open it, walk out and turn around and walk back in, or just get rid of the bell. If you always make coffee in the morning before you leave, make some coffee in the afternoon.
3. If your dog is used to your morning routine and he probably starts to get upset long before you actually leave so that by the time you walk out the door he's ready to launch into full panic mode. Switch your routine up so that he's not already freaking out when you walk out the door and he'll be much easier to distract with a toy or a special treat. If your morning usually goes like: Shower, dressed, breakfast, shoes, keys, coat, Fido in the crate, out the door. switch it up so it goes- Dressed, coat, shoes, keys, crate, breakfast, out the door.
4. Do not make a big deal about your departure. Acting sad about leaving will lead your dog to believe there is something to be sad about. Just go, matter of fact, like it's the most natural and uninteresting thing in the world- which it is and should be. When you return, again don't make a big deal. Your dog should not get extra attention or treats when you walk in the door. You should ignore him for a few minutes while you settle in and then call him over and make him sit for his attention.
Better Living Through Chemistry
Some people find help for their dogs through pharmaceuticals. I always prefer to save these for a last resort but their use is preferable to your dog hurting himself in a panic. No drug is going to help in the absence of behavior modification and training, but they can be helpful tools.
One such drug is Clomicalm, which acts by increasing serotonin levels in the brain. These hormones are the same that are released to induce feelings of love and general coziness.
Another drug that is sometimes prescribed by vets is Reconcile. This is very similar to Prozac and has been reformulated to meet the requirements for your dog.
Both medications need a few weeks to "kick in" and provide reliable relief. During that time, you should be focusing on behavior modification. As with any drug, observe your dog closely the first few times he takes his medication to make sure there are no ill effects.
A more immediate option and one that is less invasive, is the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone or D.A.P. This a chemical that mimics the scent of a mother dog that causes her pups to feel calm and secure. You can get it in a pump spray that you can apply to your dog's crate bedding or a plug-in diffuser that you can activate in the room your dog will be left in when you leave the house.
There are also many herbal aromatherapy remedies, such as Animals Apawthecary Tranquility Blend
, Anxiety By HomeoPet, ReNew Life Healthy Calm for Dogs,
and Nutri-Vet 63166 Pet-Ease Natural Calming Spray for Dogs but I can't comment on how well they work. Of course, I can't comment on how well the pharmaceuticals work either. If you've used any of these, please use the "comment" feature to let me and your fellow readers know about your experience with them.
If your dog is already in the throws of separation anxiety panic and you are scared he'll do serious harm to himself when you're not around, have him spend the day at doggie daycare or Camp BowWow for a week or two until you get this thing under control. Let your dog's caretakers know that separation anxiety is an issue so they don't make the matter worse by giving him extra attention during the day.
Start With The Basics
1. Have your dog checked out by the vet. There are many medical issues that can exacerbate behavioral problems.
2. Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise. You may have to work in a morning walk. It's good for you. Alternatively, you could run him through some obedience practice first thing in the morning and get it out of the way.
3. Check your dog's food and make sure he's not getting sugars and simple carbs that could be making him extra jumpy. Do not share your morning donut or danish with your dog. You shouldn't be eating that stuff either. It goes without saying but caffeine should also not be on his menu.
Teach Your Dog to be Independant
Many small puppies develop hyper attachment and they may grow out of it by the time they are a year old. After all, the world is a very interesting place and you are just a boring human. Some, however, do not grow out of it. Hyper attachment is evident when your dog follows you around, watches you every minute, settles into your lap when you sit down and sleeps on your pillow at night. The more time your dog spends with you when you're around, the more he will miss you when you are gone. If this is your dog, ease him out of this habit. If this isn't your dog yet, follow these steps to make sure it never becomes you dog.
1. Do not let your dog sit on your lap every time you sit down. If he jumps up, tell him no and put him down by your feet. Praise him when he finally settles down. Once he's got this down, encourage him to settle further away. Provide him with a pillow or crate in the corner of the living room and teach him to lay there or place train him and encourage him to relax in his place when you're watching TV together, instead of on your lap.
2. If there are other people in the house or if you have friends that visit frequently, encourage them to help out with the dog's care, take him on walks and put him through his training. This will teach the dog that there are more cool people in the world than just you! Take your dog out to see other people and dogs as well and leave him with a friend once in awhile.
3. Make your dog do things on his own. Do not carry him outside, to his potty pad, crate or place. Teach him to go to his crate or place on command and take him outside on his leash. The more you do things for him and carry him around, the more dependant he will be on you and the worse it will be for him when you're not around.
4. Get your dog some toys he can play with without human intervention, like the Kong, the Twist & Treat, the Tug a Jug or an Intellibone. Give him the toy, tell him he's a good boy when he starts playing with it and then walk away. If he follows you, tell him no, bring him back to the toy and repeat. If this goes on for too long, just put the toy away and try again tomorrow and if that goes on for too long, you may need to try a different toy.
5. Don't let your dog sleep next to you. If you are absolutely heartbroken by the idea of making Rover sleep on the floor, or in another room, you can have him sleep at the foot of the bed, but it will be better for him in the long run if he has his own bed. You can put his bed in his crate and have him sleep there, or put his bed right next to yours. Then if you get lonely in the night you can reach out and pet him. If he's already sleeping in your bed, put his bed on your bed and let him sleep there for a few days before making the transition. Your dog's bed can be as simple as a pillow or a blanket or as elaborate as the GoPro Auxi Empire Series "Prince/Princess" Style Wrought Iron Pet Bed
. Just makes sure it's in a cozy spot out of the way where you won't stagger over him when you get up for a drink in the night.Create an Interesting and Relaxing Environment
A dog who is shut up in a cold dog pen with a cement floor and no toys every time you go away is going to be miserable and may associate you leaving with the sensation of boredom and discomfort. Make sure that your dog is comfortable with the place he will be left in, that it is warm and cozy and that there is plenty for him to do- besides eat the couch.
1. If your dog is going to be left in a crate or pen, make sure he is used to it before you leave him alone for the first time (See my article on crate training). Teach him to go into it on command and use treats to encourage him to do so. He should have some special treats or bones that he only gets while he's there and it should be comfortable with enough space to turn around in.
2. Once you've got your dog playing independently, choose some toys he really likes and only let him have them when he's home alone. Stuffed animals are not good options because he can tear them up and chew on the stuffing. A Kong is a great option. Get creative. Fill it with all sorts of interesting surprises. You can even hang it from the ceiling to give him more of a challenge.
3. Give him a special treat that he only has when you're not around. It should be something that will last a bit, like a knuckle bone or a bully stick and it should not be something that he can pull chunks off and choke on like a rawhide.
4. If your dog regularly relaxes in front of the TV or listening to music, it may help to leave the radio or TV on. If he doesn't, it won't. He's not going to be fooled into thinking some one's home, but the background noise can be relaxing if he's used to it.
Desensitize.
1. Start out by leaving your dog alone for a few minutes at a time and then returning. Don't make a big deal out of leaving or coming back. Put him in the designated place, make sure he has water, give him his special toy and treat and walk out. Wait five minutes or so and come back. If your dog is freaking out, ignore him until he calms down and then casually release him from his crate or room. Ignore him for a few more minutes and then carry on as if nothing exciting happened. Repeat 3-4 times a day.
2. Desensitize your dog to the scents, sounds and activities that usually take place just before you leave so that these won't trigger a feeling of panic in him. Pick up your keys and put them in your pocket, then sit down instead of leaving. If you have a bell on your door, open it, walk out and turn around and walk back in, or just get rid of the bell. If you always make coffee in the morning before you leave, make some coffee in the afternoon.
3. If your dog is used to your morning routine and he probably starts to get upset long before you actually leave so that by the time you walk out the door he's ready to launch into full panic mode. Switch your routine up so that he's not already freaking out when you walk out the door and he'll be much easier to distract with a toy or a special treat. If your morning usually goes like: Shower, dressed, breakfast, shoes, keys, coat, Fido in the crate, out the door. switch it up so it goes- Dressed, coat, shoes, keys, crate, breakfast, out the door.
4. Do not make a big deal about your departure. Acting sad about leaving will lead your dog to believe there is something to be sad about. Just go, matter of fact, like it's the most natural and uninteresting thing in the world- which it is and should be. When you return, again don't make a big deal. Your dog should not get extra attention or treats when you walk in the door. You should ignore him for a few minutes while you settle in and then call him over and make him sit for his attention.
Better Living Through Chemistry
Some people find help for their dogs through pharmaceuticals. I always prefer to save these for a last resort but their use is preferable to your dog hurting himself in a panic. No drug is going to help in the absence of behavior modification and training, but they can be helpful tools.
One such drug is Clomicalm, which acts by increasing serotonin levels in the brain. These hormones are the same that are released to induce feelings of love and general coziness.
Another drug that is sometimes prescribed by vets is Reconcile. This is very similar to Prozac and has been reformulated to meet the requirements for your dog.
Both medications need a few weeks to "kick in" and provide reliable relief. During that time, you should be focusing on behavior modification. As with any drug, observe your dog closely the first few times he takes his medication to make sure there are no ill effects.
A more immediate option and one that is less invasive, is the use of Dog Appeasing Pheromone or D.A.P. This a chemical that mimics the scent of a mother dog that causes her pups to feel calm and secure. You can get it in a pump spray that you can apply to your dog's crate bedding or a plug-in diffuser that you can activate in the room your dog will be left in when you leave the house.
There are also many herbal aromatherapy remedies, such as Animals Apawthecary Tranquility Blend
, Anxiety By HomeoPet, ReNew Life Healthy Calm for Dogs, and Nutri-Vet 63166 Pet-Ease Natural Calming Spray for Dogs but I can't comment on how well they work. Of course, I can't comment on how well the pharmaceuticals work either. If you've used any of these, please use the "comment" feature to let me and your fellow readers know about your experience with them.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Let's Go to the Dog Park
Dog parks are a great, low cost way to exercise your pet and encourage socialization. Socializing your dog from a young age can reduce many behavior problems, not the least of which is dog aggression. Dog parks also offer a great opportunity to practice off-leash training with lots of distractions. Check out one of these dog parks in Oakland County and surrounding areas. If the dog park isn't for you, check out our calendar for private doggie play dates near you.
Many of these have small dog areas. If you have a small dog, keep him safe and in the small dog area!
Lyon Oaks Dog Park
Features a 13-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area; with benches, shelter and picnic tables, and water fountain
52221 Pontiac Trail
Wixom, MI 48393
Park Information 248.437.7345
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required
Orion Oaks Dog Park
Offers 14-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area, including two trails, water, field area, new parking lot; and access to Lake Sixteen for swimming (sorry, dogs only!). Please note that restrooms are under construction. The planned reopening is early January.
2301 Clarkston Road
Lake Orion, MI 48360
Park Information: 248.858.0906 or 248.625.0877
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required.
Clinton Township Civic Center Dog Park
40700 Romeo Plank Road
Clinton Township
Information: 586-286-9336
Clinton Township residents may use the park for free.
Behnke Memorial Dog Park
A one-acre dog park located inside Memorial Park in Mount Clemens. The park features a people/pet drinking fountain, bio-bag disposal and cleanup stations, faux fire hydrant, trees, benches, and a tire obstacle course.
300 N Groesbeck Highway
Mount Clemens
Open 7am to 11pm
Northville Dog Park System
Residents must attend an education session to be eligable to bring their dogs to Northville's two dogparks.
Cady Street Dog Park
215 W Cady Street
Northville residents only
Community Dog Park
Five Mile Road West of Beck
Open to non-residents
Information: 248-349-0203
In Burdi Park at Pauline Street & 12 Mile Road
Warren
Information:
Karner Farm Off Leash Dog Area
5911 Halstead Road
West Bloomfield
Information: 248-451-1900
Canine to Five Indoor Dog Park
3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit
313-831-3647
http://www.caninetofivedetroit.com/dogpark.php
Many of these have small dog areas. If you have a small dog, keep him safe and in the small dog area!
Lyon Oaks Dog Park
Features a 13-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area; with benches, shelter and picnic tables, and water fountain
52221 Pontiac Trail
Wixom, MI 48393
Park Information 248.437.7345
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required
Orion Oaks Dog Park
Offers 14-acre fenced enclosure with small dog area, including two trails, water, field area, new parking lot; and access to Lake Sixteen for swimming (sorry, dogs only!). Please note that restrooms are under construction. The planned reopening is early January.
2301 Clarkston Road
Lake Orion, MI 48360
Park Information: 248.858.0906 or 248.625.0877
Hours: 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset or as posted
Daily pass or Oakland County park pass required.
Clinton Township Civic Center Dog Park
40700 Romeo Plank Road
Clinton Township
Information: 586-286-9336
Clinton Township residents may use the park for free.
Behnke Memorial Dog Park
A one-acre dog park located inside Memorial Park in Mount Clemens. The park features a people/pet drinking fountain, bio-bag disposal and cleanup stations, faux fire hydrant, trees, benches, and a tire obstacle course.
300 N Groesbeck Highway
Mount Clemens
Open 7am to 11pm
Northville Dog Park System
Residents must attend an education session to be eligable to bring their dogs to Northville's two dogparks.
Cady Street Dog Park
215 W Cady Street
Northville residents only
Community Dog Park
Five Mile Road West of Beck
Open to non-residents
Information: 248-349-0203
In Burdi Park at Pauline Street & 12 Mile Road
Warren
Information:
Karner Farm Off Leash Dog Area
5911 Halstead Road
West Bloomfield
Information: 248-451-1900
Canine to Five Indoor Dog Park
3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit
313-831-3647
http://www.caninetofivedetroit.com/dogpark.php
Monday, November 17, 2008
Crate Training without Trauma
Crate training is a somewhat controversial topic among some pet owners. There are those who feel that it is cruel to lock a dog in a cage. But crate training actually satisfies a dog's instinctive desire to find a safe, enclosed place to spend time. Many people who crate train their dogs soon find that their companion goes to his crate on his own when he is nervous or frightened or just wants to relax away from the people for awhile. For each one of these though, there is a dog who is terrified of his crate, who fights while going in and spends the entire time inside it trying to get out. With proper training even these dogs can come to see their crate as a safe haven.
The Benefits of Crate Training
Crate training has many benefits. Providing your dog with his own den retreat gives him a haven in times of stress. This can prevent or help lesson many behaviors related to anxiety. A dog who is kept in his crate when his human pack is not at home is less prone to separation anxiety and will not get into trouble while they are gone. A dog who is crated in the car will not disturb you while you are driving and is less likely to be harmed in case of an accident than a dog who is not crated and once you get to your destination, the crate becomes a safe haven for your dog in an possibly unfamiliar situation. Since dogs instinctively urinate and defecate away from their den area, a do who is crate trained is also easier to housebreak.
But My Dog Hates His Crate
The trick to successfully crate training a dog is to associate the crate with positive feelings rather than negative ones. If a dog is forced into a crate, sent there as a punishment, left there for long periods of time and picked on (perhaps by mischievous children) while he is in the crate, the dog is not going to like his crate. If the crate is too small or located in a drafty area or isolated from the rest of the household, he's also not going to like it. If scary things happen every time he's put in the crate- he's put in the back of the car, he's left alone, someone makes loud noises, strangers come over, etc. he's not going to like his crate. All of these things can happen to a well crate trained dog, but they can't be the only things that happen. Good things must happen to. Unfortunately, it often takes just one early experience to ruin a crate for a dog and a lot of work to make a dog who hates his crate love it again.
Your Dog Can Love His Crate
If you got your dog from a shelter or a pet store he has probably already spent some time in a crate and he may be used to it, or he may have developed negative associations with it already. Whatever the case, your dog can come to love his crate pretty quickly if you follow these basic guidelines.
Choose the right crate. The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up and sit down (note that many dogs are a bit taller when they sit) and turn around and lay down in. A crate that is too big doesn't give that den-like feeling and a crate that is too small will leave you with a stiff, unhappy dog. If you're dog is a puppy, you may wish to get a crate that will be big enough for him when he is full grown. Many larger crates come with dividers so that you can section off a small portion of the crate for your puppy and make it larger as he grows. If you put your small dog in a giant crate during the day, you should still train him to a smaller traveling crate which you can place inside the larger crate while you are at home. You may choose to use a wire crate or a plastic crate. If you use a wire crate, you may wish to put a blanket or other cover over it to give it a more den-like quality. If your dog tears at this blanket, remove it. You should also invest in food dishes and water bottles that fasten to the crate itself.
Place the crate in a comfortable spot. Once your dog is used to his crate you can move it about the house as you please but to start it should be in a place where you spend time, not removed from the household. The spot should not be in direct sunlight or right over a heating vent and it should be well ventilated, but not drafty.
Introduce the crate in a unhurried, pleasant way. The first time your dog goes in the crate should not be the first time you leave him alone for the day. Introduce the crate on a day when you can spend some time on it.
Establish firm rules relating to the crate. Let everyone in the household and all visitors know that when the dog is in the crate he must not be bothered. No banging on the crate, no running back and forth past the crate and no poking the dog through the crate; though it is okay to occasionally toss a treat into the crate.
Be patient while your dog gets used to his crate. Follow the steps below to make your dog love his crate.
To Crate Train Your Dog
It will take 3-5 days to train your dog to love his crate. If you must leave him alone in the house before he is ready, consider taking him with you, having someone dog-sit or taking him to doggie day care or Camp BowWow for the day to avoid his making negative associations with the crate before the positive associations are firmly in place.
Exercise 1 "Go in your crate"
After he goes into his crate easily, close the door of the crate before giving him the treat, then open it up again right away.
Exercise 2 "Eat in your crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging.
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging. This should be done between feedings in conjunction with exercise 2.
Exercise 3 "Stay in your Crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog is happily chewing in his crate with the door open.
Some Crate Training Tips
If your dog is freaking out in his crate; barking, howling, whimpering, etc. wait until he is quiet (even if it's just a split second while he's catching his breath) before you open the door- but let him out as soon as you can. Don't talk to him in the meantime, just ignore him. We don't want him to get the idea that he'll be rewarded for whining but we also don't want him to panic in his crate!
If your dog is soiling his crate out of spite or anxiety (versus out of desperation because he wasn't taken out to potty on time) check to make sure the crate isn't too big. It should be just big enough for him to stand up, sit, turn around and lay down in. If it's the right size, remove any bedding. Most dogs don't like lying in their own urine and feces. If there's bedding they can hide it underneath and lay on top. Once he's happier in his crate you can give him his bedding back.
The Benefits of Crate Training
Crate training has many benefits. Providing your dog with his own den retreat gives him a haven in times of stress. This can prevent or help lesson many behaviors related to anxiety. A dog who is kept in his crate when his human pack is not at home is less prone to separation anxiety and will not get into trouble while they are gone. A dog who is crated in the car will not disturb you while you are driving and is less likely to be harmed in case of an accident than a dog who is not crated and once you get to your destination, the crate becomes a safe haven for your dog in an possibly unfamiliar situation. Since dogs instinctively urinate and defecate away from their den area, a do who is crate trained is also easier to housebreak.
But My Dog Hates His Crate
The trick to successfully crate training a dog is to associate the crate with positive feelings rather than negative ones. If a dog is forced into a crate, sent there as a punishment, left there for long periods of time and picked on (perhaps by mischievous children) while he is in the crate, the dog is not going to like his crate. If the crate is too small or located in a drafty area or isolated from the rest of the household, he's also not going to like it. If scary things happen every time he's put in the crate- he's put in the back of the car, he's left alone, someone makes loud noises, strangers come over, etc. he's not going to like his crate. All of these things can happen to a well crate trained dog, but they can't be the only things that happen. Good things must happen to. Unfortunately, it often takes just one early experience to ruin a crate for a dog and a lot of work to make a dog who hates his crate love it again.
Your Dog Can Love His Crate
If you got your dog from a shelter or a pet store he has probably already spent some time in a crate and he may be used to it, or he may have developed negative associations with it already. Whatever the case, your dog can come to love his crate pretty quickly if you follow these basic guidelines.
Choose the right crate. The crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up and sit down (note that many dogs are a bit taller when they sit) and turn around and lay down in. A crate that is too big doesn't give that den-like feeling and a crate that is too small will leave you with a stiff, unhappy dog. If you're dog is a puppy, you may wish to get a crate that will be big enough for him when he is full grown. Many larger crates come with dividers so that you can section off a small portion of the crate for your puppy and make it larger as he grows. If you put your small dog in a giant crate during the day, you should still train him to a smaller traveling crate which you can place inside the larger crate while you are at home. You may choose to use a wire crate or a plastic crate. If you use a wire crate, you may wish to put a blanket or other cover over it to give it a more den-like quality. If your dog tears at this blanket, remove it. You should also invest in food dishes and water bottles that fasten to the crate itself.
Place the crate in a comfortable spot. Once your dog is used to his crate you can move it about the house as you please but to start it should be in a place where you spend time, not removed from the household. The spot should not be in direct sunlight or right over a heating vent and it should be well ventilated, but not drafty.
Introduce the crate in a unhurried, pleasant way. The first time your dog goes in the crate should not be the first time you leave him alone for the day. Introduce the crate on a day when you can spend some time on it.
Establish firm rules relating to the crate. Let everyone in the household and all visitors know that when the dog is in the crate he must not be bothered. No banging on the crate, no running back and forth past the crate and no poking the dog through the crate; though it is okay to occasionally toss a treat into the crate.
Be patient while your dog gets used to his crate. Follow the steps below to make your dog love his crate.
To Crate Train Your Dog
It will take 3-5 days to train your dog to love his crate. If you must leave him alone in the house before he is ready, consider taking him with you, having someone dog-sit or taking him to doggie day care or Camp BowWow for the day to avoid his making negative associations with the crate before the positive associations are firmly in place.
Exercise 1 "Go in your crate"
- Allow your dog to skip a meal so he's good and hungry. Have his usual amount of dog food on hand to use as a reward and some of his favorite treats.
- Sit on a chair next to the crate. Open it and call the dog to you. Pet him and praise him.
- Toss a treat into the crate and say "Go in your crate". If he hesitates give him a little nudge in the rear to get him moving into the crate. If he resists strongly, you may need a better treat.
- As soon as he's in the crate, tell him how wonderful he is while feeding him kibble alternated with treats. When he hops back out, stop feeding him.
- Repeat 10-20 times
- Now say "Go in your crate", but don't throw a treat in there. If he goes in on his own, tell him how wonderful he is and give him lots of his favorite treats. If he doesn't, give him a nudge and then praise and treat him. If he still doesn't go in on his own, go back to the beginning and repeat 10-20 times then end the game and start over at your next session.
- Repeat 10-20 times
- By now your dog is probably close to full and you're both probably a little tired so take a break.
After he goes into his crate easily, close the door of the crate before giving him the treat, then open it up again right away.
Exercise 2 "Eat in your crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging.
- Fasten a food bowl to the inside of the crate. At feeding time each day, fill the food dish while your dog watches. Make him sit and stay until you are done placing it inside the crate then tell your dog to "go in your crate". When he goes in, praise him and let him enjoy his meal. If he refuses to go into his crate to eat his food, try adding a bit of warm water to it.
- Let him have his food for fifteen minutes while you linger nearby doing whatever you do.
- After 15 minutes, regardless of whether he has eaten remove the food. Some dogs will resist eating in the crate at first. Don't worry, he won't let himself starve. Simply take the food away and try again at his next scheduled feeding. Leave the crate open between meals so he can relax in it at his leisure.
- Repeat at every feeding until he is eating normally, then close the door with him inside for the 15 minutes he is eating rather than leaving it open. Feed your dog this way forever after. (This is especially helpful if you have multiple dogs or a toddler running around!)
Begin this exercise once your dog will go in his crate on command without nudging. This should be done between feedings in conjunction with exercise 2.
- Find a chew your dog just loves. I recommend bully sticks and smoked knuckle bones which are particularly good for this because they stink and you probably don't want him running around the house with them. You can also use a Kong if you prefer. Let your dog sniff the chew and then toss it in his crate.
- Tell your dog "Go in your crate"
- When he goes in don't praise him till he starts working on his chew, then tell him how great he is.
- If he brings the chew out of his crate, toss it back in. If it starts becoming a fetch game, take it away and try again later.
- Now, forever after, your dog never gets a chewy (or Kong) unless he is in his crate! If he goes to his crate on his own and looks up at you expectantly, praise him and give him his chewy. Don't be afraid to mix it up if there's more than one kind of chewy he really likes or give him a bully stick or smoked knuckle bone one day, a Kong the next, a Twist & Treat once in awhile, etc. The idea is that you're giving something he's going to enjoy that will last him awhile.
Exercise 3 "Stay in your Crate"
Begin this exercise once your dog is happily chewing in his crate with the door open.
- Tell your dog "Go in your crate" and give him the chewy (or Kong) once he is in there.
- Close the door.
- Leave the door closed for 10 minutes or so regardless of his protestations (he'll probably start grumbling after he gets bored with his chewy, realize he's being ignored and lay down for a nap. )
- After the designated time, open the door in a matter of fact way, don't fuss or praise him as he comes out of the crate. Remove his chewy or toy from the crate and put it away. He only gets it when the door is closed now and forever!
- Repeat 3-4 times a day. If 20 minutes isn't a problem, leave him for 30, then 45, then an hour.
Some Crate Training Tips
If your dog is freaking out in his crate; barking, howling, whimpering, etc. wait until he is quiet (even if it's just a split second while he's catching his breath) before you open the door- but let him out as soon as you can. Don't talk to him in the meantime, just ignore him. We don't want him to get the idea that he'll be rewarded for whining but we also don't want him to panic in his crate!
If your dog is soiling his crate out of spite or anxiety (versus out of desperation because he wasn't taken out to potty on time) check to make sure the crate isn't too big. It should be just big enough for him to stand up, sit, turn around and lay down in. If it's the right size, remove any bedding. Most dogs don't like lying in their own urine and feces. If there's bedding they can hide it underneath and lay on top. Once he's happier in his crate you can give him his bedding back.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Help! My Dog is Hyper!
If your dog is literally bouncing off the walls and furniture instead of paying attention during training time, you may despair of ever teaching him anything! If he's jumping all over everything and everybody, you may be afraid he'll hurt himself or a family member and your fear is not misplaced. Hyperactivity can segue into aggression very easily. While some dogs are just a little high energy, especially as puppies, there are many things you can do to bring him down to Earth. Chances are your puppy will settle down by the time he's two years old but some breeds are hyper for life.
Exercise
Most dogs do not get enough exercise and many breeds, such as herding dogs and hunting dogs, were bred to be able to withstand long days of vigorous physical activity. If they don't get that exercise through work and play, they may release it through obnoxious behavior instead. Eventually, they may "grow out" of the hyperactivity by gaining a bunch of weight and slowing down just like overweight people do but this isn't good for your dog. Just like people, excess weight is hard on the dog's heart and other organs and joints. To ensure that your dog gets enough exercise, take him for a brisk walk at least once a day and take him to the park for a long game of catch at least once a week. You may also wish to join a Meetup Group that will allow you and your dog to get together with other dogs and their owners for socialization and exercise. No human can exercise a dog as well as another dog can!
If your dog is stuck in the house all day while you're at work, consider leaving him at Camp BowWow or at PetSmart's Doggie DayCamp once or twice a week (or every day!). When you pick him up at the end of the day he'll be tired and happy and frequent trips to fun places like that will help get rid of any car anxiety your dog might have.
On those days that your dog isn't at day camp, provide him with lots of distractions to keep him busy. A Kong, stuffed with wet dogfood, ground meat or another delicious treat will keep him busy for awhile. A Twist and Treat full of kibble or dog biscuits will keep him occupied for a bit as well and the Tug A Jug is also a neat way to keep your dog busy and fed all at once. Don't be afraid to feed him all of his meals out of these toys. Hide them around his play area so he can make a game out of locating his lunch.
Hyper active dogs also tend to chew a lot. Some owners complain that they chew through their bones and toys so fast it hardly seems worth it to buy them. Pressed rawhide lasts a little longer, but it can come off in chunks that can get stuck in your dog's gut causing painful (and deadly!) blockages. (This is rare, but possible) I recommend Bully Sticks. They last awhile, they're completely edible and digestible and uh... they smell horrible. Dogs love them. I also recommend smoked knuckle bones. They don't splinter like long bones do, they last awhile, they also stink and dogs love them. Griffin gets either a Bully Stick or a knuckle bone at bedtime and it helps him relax.
Diet
Just like a child, a dog's behavior can be affected by what he eats. Not all dogs have issues, but some dogs are very sensitive to carbohydrates and sugars in their food and some artificial colorings and flavors have been blamed for causing hyperactivity as well. If you think this may be a problem, try switching your dog to an all natural food like Wellness or Canidae or even a grain free dog food like Raw Instinct, or Core. Some people prefer to prepare their dog's food themselves and this is a great option if you have the time and you do the research to make sure your dog is getting the nutrition he needs. Sodium can also affect your dog's activity level. Make sure you don't give your dog "people food" full of salt, such as potato chips, french fries and packaged food. It's not good for you either!
Training
Many times a dog's hyperactivity issues are cries for attention (just like kids) and giving him something to do will help out a great deal. Basic training is important, and you can get that at www.betterdog.com (If you're in Michigan, ask for Robin!) or you could take classes. Remember though, whether you get lessons at home or in a classroom, you must practice every day if you want your dog to actually learn. Even 15 minutes a day will bring about a huge improvement. Besides obedience, hyper dogs love to learn new tricks. Try 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
for ideas.
Health
Hyperactivity can be caused by health problems, particularly related to the thyroid. Be sure to check with your vet and have a blood test done on your dog to make sure that there isn't a correctable physical problem causing his issues.
Exercise
Most dogs do not get enough exercise and many breeds, such as herding dogs and hunting dogs, were bred to be able to withstand long days of vigorous physical activity. If they don't get that exercise through work and play, they may release it through obnoxious behavior instead. Eventually, they may "grow out" of the hyperactivity by gaining a bunch of weight and slowing down just like overweight people do but this isn't good for your dog. Just like people, excess weight is hard on the dog's heart and other organs and joints. To ensure that your dog gets enough exercise, take him for a brisk walk at least once a day and take him to the park for a long game of catch at least once a week. You may also wish to join a Meetup Group that will allow you and your dog to get together with other dogs and their owners for socialization and exercise. No human can exercise a dog as well as another dog can!
If your dog is stuck in the house all day while you're at work, consider leaving him at Camp BowWow or at PetSmart's Doggie DayCamp once or twice a week (or every day!). When you pick him up at the end of the day he'll be tired and happy and frequent trips to fun places like that will help get rid of any car anxiety your dog might have.
On those days that your dog isn't at day camp, provide him with lots of distractions to keep him busy. A Kong, stuffed with wet dogfood, ground meat or another delicious treat will keep him busy for awhile. A Twist and Treat full of kibble or dog biscuits will keep him occupied for a bit as well and the Tug A Jug is also a neat way to keep your dog busy and fed all at once. Don't be afraid to feed him all of his meals out of these toys. Hide them around his play area so he can make a game out of locating his lunch.
Hyper active dogs also tend to chew a lot. Some owners complain that they chew through their bones and toys so fast it hardly seems worth it to buy them. Pressed rawhide lasts a little longer, but it can come off in chunks that can get stuck in your dog's gut causing painful (and deadly!) blockages. (This is rare, but possible) I recommend Bully Sticks. They last awhile, they're completely edible and digestible and uh... they smell horrible. Dogs love them. I also recommend smoked knuckle bones. They don't splinter like long bones do, they last awhile, they also stink and dogs love them. Griffin gets either a Bully Stick or a knuckle bone at bedtime and it helps him relax.
Diet
Just like a child, a dog's behavior can be affected by what he eats. Not all dogs have issues, but some dogs are very sensitive to carbohydrates and sugars in their food and some artificial colorings and flavors have been blamed for causing hyperactivity as well. If you think this may be a problem, try switching your dog to an all natural food like Wellness or Canidae or even a grain free dog food like Raw Instinct, or Core. Some people prefer to prepare their dog's food themselves and this is a great option if you have the time and you do the research to make sure your dog is getting the nutrition he needs. Sodium can also affect your dog's activity level. Make sure you don't give your dog "people food" full of salt, such as potato chips, french fries and packaged food. It's not good for you either!
Training
Many times a dog's hyperactivity issues are cries for attention (just like kids) and giving him something to do will help out a great deal. Basic training is important, and you can get that at www.betterdog.com (If you're in Michigan, ask for Robin!) or you could take classes. Remember though, whether you get lessons at home or in a classroom, you must practice every day if you want your dog to actually learn. Even 15 minutes a day will bring about a huge improvement. Besides obedience, hyper dogs love to learn new tricks. Try 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
for ideas.Health
Hyperactivity can be caused by health problems, particularly related to the thyroid. Be sure to check with your vet and have a blood test done on your dog to make sure that there isn't a correctable physical problem causing his issues.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)