I've seen puppy starter kits and the like in stores claiming to have everything you need to get started with your new puppy and many of them seem to be pretty good. But what do you really need to get your pup off to a good start in your home? Here are a few basic supplies.
1. The Crate
Your pup's crate will be his safe haven for years to come. The right sized crate is just big enough for your puppy, once he's a full grown dog, to stand up, sit down, turn around and lie down in. Many larger crates come with dividers to make the crate temporarily smaller that you can move as your puppy grows. The crate should be placed in a cozy spot out of the sun and drafts in a room where the family spends time. If you choose a wire crate, consider covering the sides with a quilt, assuming your pup doesn't try to eat it. Your pup will probably chew up anything you put in the crate at this point, so don't worry about getting him a comfy crate liner or bed. Just line it with an old blanket or towel, something you won't get too upset about if he destroys it. If your pup is starts eating his crate liner, take it out and leave him on the bare floor for now. It's not as mean as you think and it's safer than ingesting fabric! See my article Crate Training Without Trauma to learn the right way to crate train your pup!
Find a Crate at Amazon.com
2. Food Dishes
I prefer food dishes specially designed to attach to the inside of the crate. These help with crate training and aren't so easy to spill. If you're not going to feed your dog in the crate, he doesn't need anything fancy for a food dish. It's your personal preference. Find out from your vet how much you'll need to put in the dish at each feeding and get an appropriate sized dish. Whatever you choose, remember that your dog's dishes need to be washed as often as the rest of the dishes in the house - that is, after every use.
3. Chews
Your puppy needs to chew. If you don't supply him with something to chew on, he'll make his own selection and you probably won't approve. Avoid rawhide which can come off in chunks and cause your puppy to choke or get lodged in his intestine and log bones which can break into sharp splinters. Instead try the Nylabone Double Action Combo Bone Chew Toy
Bully Sticks or
, Smoked Knuckle Bones
4. Other Toys
Balls, tug toys, rubber squeak toys and anything your pup can shake will help keep him entertained and exercised. He doesn't need a lot of toys. Buy a few different types and experiment with them to see what his play style is like. Remember that these toys are not generally for independent play- you must supervise and interact with your pup while he is playing with these. They are not designed to be chewed on. Anything made of rubber, including balls, can come apart in chunks that can choke your pup or become lodged in his intestine. Anything made of cloth can also be shredded and swallowed. Don't become frustrated that your pup destroys his toys - it's what they do. Watch him while he plays and if he settles down to chew, take the toy away and replace it with a chew.
Some favorites are Kyjen Fleecy Clean Jumbo Knot Tug Dog Toy and
, KONG Air Dog Squeakair Tennis Balls
.
5. Grooming Supplies
Depending on the kind of coat your pup has, he will need a brush. You will also want a flea comb, a toothbrush, nail clippers and quick stop, and ear cleaning solution - especially if you've selected a floppy eared breed. Even if you plan to take your pup to the groomer on a regular basis, you will want to introduce him to all of these tools early on and brush your pup at home between trips to the salon. If you're having trouble making selections in the pet store, go to a store that has a grooming facility and ask one of the groomers for recommendations.
6. Food
Find out what your pup has been eating at his previous home and buy a small bag of that food. When you take your pup to the vet for the first time (it should be within a week of bringing him home) ask your vet for recommendations. If you decide to change your pet's diet later, you should mix the old food with the new for awhile, to make the change gradual. You can visit the Dog Food Advisor for analysis and ratings of different brands of dog food.
7. A collar
Your pup needs a collar to hold his ID tags and attach his leash. Some trainers recommend you use two separate collars; one for the ID tags and one for the leash, in case the collar attached to the leash breaks and your pup runs off - he will still have his ID tags. I feel that it is safer to teach your dog to walk nicely on a leash and come when called and, for further security, to have your vet microchip your pet. The best collar is a leather flat buckle collar
. Since your pup is likely to outgrow his collar very soon, you may wish to use a less costly nylon clip collar
for the time being. The best leash
is about six feet long. Very small pups may feel more comfortable with a slightly longer and narrower cat leash
. I do not recommend pinch collars or choke collars for any dog, especially dogs younger than six months old.
8. Treats
Treats will help your pup acclimate to his new home and are useful for rewarding good behavior in early training. At this point though, you should keep treats only moderately interesting, unless your pup isn't showing interest in them. Cheerios
make good early treats and Charlee Bear All Natural treats
are also a good choice.
9. Books
Check out the Puppy Raising and Training Diary for Dummies
and the Everything Dog Training and Tricks book
.
1. The Crate
Your pup's crate will be his safe haven for years to come. The right sized crate is just big enough for your puppy, once he's a full grown dog, to stand up, sit down, turn around and lie down in. Many larger crates come with dividers to make the crate temporarily smaller that you can move as your puppy grows. The crate should be placed in a cozy spot out of the sun and drafts in a room where the family spends time. If you choose a wire crate, consider covering the sides with a quilt, assuming your pup doesn't try to eat it. Your pup will probably chew up anything you put in the crate at this point, so don't worry about getting him a comfy crate liner or bed. Just line it with an old blanket or towel, something you won't get too upset about if he destroys it. If your pup is starts eating his crate liner, take it out and leave him on the bare floor for now. It's not as mean as you think and it's safer than ingesting fabric! See my article Crate Training Without Trauma to learn the right way to crate train your pup!
Find a Crate at Amazon.com
2. Food Dishes
I prefer food dishes specially designed to attach to the inside of the crate. These help with crate training and aren't so easy to spill. If you're not going to feed your dog in the crate, he doesn't need anything fancy for a food dish. It's your personal preference. Find out from your vet how much you'll need to put in the dish at each feeding and get an appropriate sized dish. Whatever you choose, remember that your dog's dishes need to be washed as often as the rest of the dishes in the house - that is, after every use.
3. Chews
Your puppy needs to chew. If you don't supply him with something to chew on, he'll make his own selection and you probably won't approve. Avoid rawhide which can come off in chunks and cause your puppy to choke or get lodged in his intestine and log bones which can break into sharp splinters. Instead try the Nylabone Double Action Combo Bone Chew Toy
4. Other Toys
Balls, tug toys, rubber squeak toys and anything your pup can shake will help keep him entertained and exercised. He doesn't need a lot of toys. Buy a few different types and experiment with them to see what his play style is like. Remember that these toys are not generally for independent play- you must supervise and interact with your pup while he is playing with these. They are not designed to be chewed on. Anything made of rubber, including balls, can come apart in chunks that can choke your pup or become lodged in his intestine. Anything made of cloth can also be shredded and swallowed. Don't become frustrated that your pup destroys his toys - it's what they do. Watch him while he plays and if he settles down to chew, take the toy away and replace it with a chew.
Some favorites are Kyjen Fleecy Clean Jumbo Knot Tug Dog Toy and
5. Grooming Supplies
Depending on the kind of coat your pup has, he will need a brush. You will also want a flea comb, a toothbrush, nail clippers and quick stop, and ear cleaning solution - especially if you've selected a floppy eared breed. Even if you plan to take your pup to the groomer on a regular basis, you will want to introduce him to all of these tools early on and brush your pup at home between trips to the salon. If you're having trouble making selections in the pet store, go to a store that has a grooming facility and ask one of the groomers for recommendations.
6. Food
Find out what your pup has been eating at his previous home and buy a small bag of that food. When you take your pup to the vet for the first time (it should be within a week of bringing him home) ask your vet for recommendations. If you decide to change your pet's diet later, you should mix the old food with the new for awhile, to make the change gradual. You can visit the Dog Food Advisor for analysis and ratings of different brands of dog food.
7. A collar
Your pup needs a collar to hold his ID tags and attach his leash. Some trainers recommend you use two separate collars; one for the ID tags and one for the leash, in case the collar attached to the leash breaks and your pup runs off - he will still have his ID tags. I feel that it is safer to teach your dog to walk nicely on a leash and come when called and, for further security, to have your vet microchip your pet. The best collar is a leather flat buckle collar
8. Treats
Treats will help your pup acclimate to his new home and are useful for rewarding good behavior in early training. At this point though, you should keep treats only moderately interesting, unless your pup isn't showing interest in them. Cheerios
9. Books
Check out the Puppy Raising and Training Diary for Dummies