Playbiting is No Fun!

All babies mouth things when their little as part of their sensory exploration and as they get to know other individuals, they mouth those individuals playfully, affectionately and curiously. Human babies can chew and suck on mom & dad's hands with impunity for about 6 or 7 months or so before that first tooth comes in, but puppies are born with needle sharp teeth and it is no fun having those on your skin!

Those teeth, however, serve a valuable purpose; They help teach a pup that biting is not acceptable acceptable before his jaws become powerful enough to do too much damage. How is that? They hurt! Very little pressure is needed to inflict pain with teeth as sharp as a puppy's milk teeth and the reaction of a pup's playmate to the least bit of pressure will help your pup learn how to keep his mouth "soft" when playing. Of course, if the reaction is very exciting or amusing, it can have the opposite effect. If your puppy learns that he can use his teeth to get his playmate to make really interesting noises and flail around in funny ways, he is going to do it again and again, simply for entertainment value.

Problems arise when a pup bites a human and that human shrieks, squeals, yells (sounds like barking Yay!), jumps up, waves their arms around, etc. All of this looks like great fun for a pup and encourages him to bite again. Pushing him away just makes the game more challenging. Running away makes the game really exciting. The more energy the human puts into getting the pup off of him, the more energy the pup puts into getting his teeth on that human again so that when he finally does, he does it with even more force than last time and that hurts even worse! So the cycle continues until someone, usually a small child, gets hurt.

Dogs, on the other hand, are much more effective about getting their point across when they want playbiting to stop. The let the pup know vocally and then withdraw and end the game. The message is loud and clear, "I am not happy with what you are doing and I'm not playing with you anymore." The pup looks confused and disappointed for a moment and then runs off to pester someone else. He'll soon learn that playtime lasts longer if he's gentle with his teeth and ends when he gets too bitey. This is the message that humans need to try to cultivate as well.

The good news about playbiting is that your puppy will outgrow it if you don't allow it to become a habit. However, if you allow playbiting and  even encourage it as in the scenario above, your dog could be a handmouther for life (or until you train it out of him). The good news there is that his adult teeth won't be nearly as sharp as those puppy teeth are.

How to Break the Playbiting Habit

1. Allow your puppy to spend time playing with other puppies and older dogs from an early age. The dogs will teach your puppy using dog language, which is much easier for your pup to understand. Supervise these play groups carefully though. If your pup is bullying another pup or gnawing like crazy on some old dame that doesn't seem to mind, you'll need to intervene. Remove him from the playgroup and put him in a quiet place for time out for 5-10 minutes and then try again.

2. Communicate your displeasure with his playbiting in a way your dog can understand. Use a low, disapproving voice. (Don't yell and don't "yelp". Loud voices and high pitched noises are just too exciting to be seen as a correction.) Use only a few short words like "No biting" and freeze for three seconds. If your pup eases off, praise him and continue your game. If he doesn't ease off, remove him or yourself from the room and give him a 5-10 minute time out. Do this calmly and gently, excessive emotion on your part will just get him more excited.

3. Instruct children to stop playing with the dog if he starts to get to rough and bitey, but don't trust them to obey this directive. Always supervise children when they are playing with the dog. If you see him start mouthing on them say "No biting" in a low, calm, disapproving voice, and put him in time out for 5-10 minutes.

4. Pay close attention to your pup's activities and take note of what triggers play biting incidents and try to avoid those triggers. Some pups will begin play biting only after play has reached a certain energetic pitch and some will start gnawing when they are overtired.

5. Make sure your pup gets plenty of exercise and has safe, appropriate chew toys.

You will notice that after a few corrections your bite-free play sessions with your pup will get gradually longer until you can play with him bite free. It will be quicker and easier to teach a puppy to refrain from playbiting than it will an adult dog who has developed the habit. It is always more difficult to break a habit than to simply teach proper behavior in the first place. So start early and be consistent.

People Food

A lot of my clients have gotten strict advice from vets or other trainers never to feed their dogs "people food" and I don't always tend to agree with this advice. In fact, I feel that in some cases, feeding your dog "people food" is better than feeding your dog the stuff you get at the pet store. If you take a look at the ingredients on some of your dog treats, you might notice some nasty stuff in there; like corn syrup and sugar. Dogs like sweet, but they don't need sugar. A chunk of apple, a carrot, a slice of banana or a blueberry is plenty sweet for them and they'll perform for these just as happily as a sugar-laden dog treat. If you are going to feed your dog "people food", there are some rules you should follow.

1. Whole foods only. Do not feed your dogs cookies, candy, cake, bread, chips, or other "junk" foods. If you are going to feed your dog real food, feed him real food. Lean meat, whole grains, fresh fruits and vegetables.

2. Know what's safe. There are some things that are edible by and even very healthy for humans that are toxic to dogs. Don't give your dogs any of these: chocolate, onions, grapes or raisins, avocado, macadamia nuts and anything containing alcohol or caffeine. The artificial sweetener xylitol is also poisonous to dogs. Many dogs are lactose intolerant so it's a good idea to stay away from dairy products. Those that have been cultured, like yogurt and cheese, are usually better tolerated. Also, too much liver can harm your dog, though he loves it. Reserve liver for very special treats only.

3. Don't feed your dog anything you wouldn't eat. Fat and bones, spoiled food, all of these things you wouldn't or couldn't eat. Don't feed them to your dog. He is just as likely to get sick from it as you are. Raw eggs, fish and meat (particularly pork) carry risks of bacteria and parasites that can make both of you very sick as well, but cooked fish and eggs are wonderfully nutritious for both you and your dog.

4. Prepare it well. Remove any seeds, stems, bones, skin and fat. Cook meat, fish and eggs to a safe temperature. Cook grains till they are soft. Potatoes should also be thoroughly cooked. Do not add sugar or salt.

5. Portion Control. Remember that all the food you give you dog should be earned as a reward or placed in his bowl at feeding time. Remember too that all the food you give him counts toward his daily calories so whenever you give him something special, you have to reduce his other food by a similar amount.

6 . Insist on Manners. Never feed your dog from the table, or from your plate. This encourages bad habits. If you would like to give your dog some leftovers, set aside a portion to go into his bowl at his next scheduled feeding time. Or, after  you have finished eating and dinner is all put away, you can let him earn some tasty tidbits by doing some tricks for you.

The all beings said, here are some great "people food" treats for your dog:

Diced pieces of grilled, baked or steamed chicken.
Small pieces of yogurt cheese.
Peeled, sliced apple bits.
A whole raw carrot - this is a great chew toy, but messy!
Blueberries - cut them in half and feed them to him one by one.
Steamed green beans (this is great to add to your dog's kibble when you're trying to cut calories.)

Remember that these suggestions are for treats, not for a homemade diet for your dog. If you are interested in a homemade diet for your dog, you will need to do a lot of research and preparation to ensure that you are meeting his nutritional needs. The following books might be useful for you.

Feed Your Best Friend Better: Easy, Nutritious Meals and Treats for Dogs

The Healthy Dog Cookbook: 50 Nutritious & Delicious Recipes Your Dog Will Love

Fighting Fleas

Chances are if you've had a dog for any length of time you've encountered fleas at some point. Fleas are nasty biting parasites that suck your dog's blood and yours and lay eggs that hatch in your carpet, bedding and furniture just in time to re-infest your dog when you think you've finally got them beat. Fleas can be quite dangerous to your dog (and cat) as they carry parasites, particularly tapeworm, and some animals and people are allergic to them the way some people are allergic to fire ants and bees! Not to mention that petting a flea bitten dog is not the most pleasant experience in the world and listening to your dog scratch all night means no sleep for anybody. So get a jump on fleas this year. Bite them before they bite you with a four pronged attack!

Step 1
Prevention

The first step to keeping your dog as healthy as possible. That means providing him with the best possible nutrition (consult your veterinarian on this front), giving him plenty of exercise and grooming him on a regular schedule. If you have a thick coated, long-haired dog he should be brushed daily and bathed and blow dried monthly. Shorter haired dogs can be brushed weekly, but the more often you give him a good brushing the more likely you are to spot a flea before it has a chance to move the family in.

In addition to keeping your dog healthy, there are a number of spot treatments that can protect your dog from flea infestation for a month at a time. Some people do not feel comfortable doing this as these are poisonous chemicals and some dogs are sensitive to them. However, they are considered safe for most dogs. If you are concerned, you can lesson your dog's exposure by only applying the product to your pet during flea season or when fleas are seen, but if you do this you must be extra vigilent in your grooming schedule so you can catch infestations early.

It should be noted that your local flea population has as much potential to evolve as any other creature and it is possible that your fleas might become immune to the product you are using. If you notice your product isn't working as well as it used to, you may wish to try something new. You may wish to alternate between K9 Advantix Flea Control  and Merial Frontline Plus Flea and Tick Control.

Step 2
Treat Your Dog

If your dog already has fleas, you can treat him in a variety of ways. I personally like to massage my dog with coconut oil, which suffocates the fleas and soothes his poor skin. I let it sit for an hour and then wash it off, it takes two lathers to get the oil all off, but afterward his fur looks lovely. You can also use SynergyLabs Richard's Organics Natural Flea & Tick Shampoo but remember to follow the directions carefully. It won't work if you don't use as directed. You may also wish to use a dietary supplement such as Program for Dogs or Novartis Capstar Flea Treatment Blue Tabs, but be sure to check with your veterinarian first.

If your dog is difficult to bathe, or if you are just totally grossed out by the flea thing, you can take your dog to a groomer and have them flea dip him.

Remember if you have other pets in the house that they are also susceptible to fleas, so have them treated too even if you don't see any fleas on them.


Step 3
Treat Your House

If your dog has fleas, chances are your house does too. Fleas spend much of their life cycle off of the dog and can be very happy in your carpet or couch cushions. The first thing you need to do is give your house a thorough vacuuming and run your dog's bedding - and your own if he's ever on your bed - through the washer and dryer.

Next, use a product containing diatomicious Earth such as St. Gabriel Laboratories All Natural Indoor/Outdoor Insect Dust Repellent  and sprinkle this into your carpet and under your couch cushions. Use a broom or stiff brush to work it in really well then let it sit 20 minutes or so, finally, vacuum up the excess. Although products like this are "safer" in the sense that they do not have harmful chemicals, they do tend to kick up alot of dust and you don't want to inhale all that, so make sure your pets and kids are out of the house while you're working and open up all the windows so you get some ventilation.

Continue to vacuum your house frequently, preferably daily or at least twice a week to ensure that any fleas jumping off your dog don't get to take up residence in your house.

Step 4
Repeat and Prevent Re-Infestation

Depending on the treatment you used for your  dog, you may have to repeat it after a week to ensure any newly hatched fleas are also killed. However, if you are using chemical pesticides, it will not be safe to re-treat your dog anytime soon. Read labels carefully and check with your vet or groomer. Follow the advice in Step 1 to prevent re-infestation.

And Then...
Watch Out for Tapeworms

Dogs and cats can get tapeworms from eating fleas, so if you've got a flea infestation, there's a chance you're pets have tapeworms as well. Your vet can test your pet's feces for tapeworms and, if the the test comes back positive, prescribe worming medication. Both the test and the medication are inexpensive. Whether the initial test is positive or negative, it should be repeated in a month to ensure that your dog really is tapeworm free.