Puppy Stuff - What Do You Really Need?

I've seen puppy starter kits and the like in stores claiming to have everything you need to get started with your new puppy and many of them seem to be pretty good. But what do you really need to get your pup off to a good start in your home? Here are a few basic supplies.

1. The Crate
Your pup's crate will be his safe haven for years to come. The right sized crate is just big enough for your puppy, once he's a full grown dog, to stand up, sit down, turn around and lie down in. Many larger crates come with dividers to make the crate temporarily smaller that you can move as your puppy grows. The crate should be placed in a cozy spot out of the sun and drafts in a room where the family spends time. If you choose a wire crate, consider covering the sides with a quilt, assuming your pup doesn't try to eat it. Your pup will probably chew up anything you put in the crate at this point, so don't worry about getting him a comfy crate liner or bed. Just line it with an old blanket or towel, something you won't get too upset about if he destroys it. If your pup is starts eating his crate liner, take it out and leave him on the bare floor for now. It's not as mean as you think and it's safer than ingesting fabric! See my article Crate Training Without Trauma to learn the right way to crate train your pup!

Find a Crate at Amazon.com

2. Food Dishes
I prefer food dishes specially designed to attach to the inside of the crate. These help with crate training and aren't so easy to spill. If you're not going to feed your dog in the crate, he doesn't need anything fancy for a food dish. It's your personal preference. Find out from your vet how much you'll need to put in the dish at each feeding and get an appropriate sized dish. Whatever you choose, remember that your dog's dishes need to be washed as often as the rest of the dishes in the house - that is, after every use.

3. Chews
Your puppy needs to chew. If you don't supply him with something to chew on, he'll make his own selection and you probably won't approve. Avoid rawhide which can come off in chunks and cause your puppy to choke or get lodged in his intestine and log bones which can break into sharp splinters. Instead try the Nylabone Double Action Combo Bone Chew Toy Bully Sticks or, Smoked Knuckle Bones

4. Other Toys
Balls, tug toys, rubber squeak toys and anything your pup can shake will help keep him entertained and exercised. He doesn't need a lot of toys. Buy a few different types and experiment with them to see what his play style is like. Remember that these toys are not generally for independent play- you must supervise and interact with your pup while he is playing with these. They are not designed to be chewed on. Anything made of rubber, including balls, can come apart in chunks that can choke your pup or become lodged in his intestine. Anything made of cloth can also be shredded and swallowed. Don't become frustrated that your pup destroys his toys - it's what they do. Watch him while he plays and if he settles down to chew, take the toy away and replace it with a chew.
Some favorites are Kyjen Fleecy Clean Jumbo Knot Tug Dog Toy and , KONG Air Dog Squeakair Tennis Balls.


5. Grooming Supplies
Depending on the kind of coat your pup has, he will need a brush. You will also want a flea comb, a toothbrush, nail clippers and quick stop, and ear cleaning solution - especially if you've selected a floppy eared breed. Even if you plan to take your pup to the groomer on a regular basis, you will want to introduce him to all of these tools early on and brush your pup at home between trips to the salon. If you're having trouble making selections in the pet store, go to a store that has a grooming facility and ask one of the groomers for recommendations.

6. Food
Find out what your pup has been eating at his previous home and buy a small bag of that food. When you take your pup to the vet for the first time (it should be within a week of bringing him home) ask your vet for recommendations. If you decide to change your pet's diet later, you should mix the old food with the new for awhile, to make the change gradual. You can visit the Dog Food Advisor for analysis and ratings of different brands of dog food.

7. A collar
Your pup needs a collar to hold his ID tags and attach his leash. Some trainers recommend you use two separate collars; one for the ID tags and one for the leash, in case the collar attached to the leash breaks and your pup runs off - he will still have his ID tags. I feel that it is safer to teach your dog to walk nicely on a leash and come when called and, for further security, to have your vet microchip your pet. The best collar is a leather flat buckle collar. Since your pup is likely to outgrow his collar very soon, you may wish to use a less costly nylon clip collar for the time being. The best leash is about six feet long. Very small pups may feel more comfortable with a slightly longer and narrower cat leash. I do not recommend pinch collars or choke collars for any dog, especially dogs younger than six months old.

8. Treats
Treats will help your pup acclimate to his new home and are useful for rewarding good behavior in early training. At this point though, you should keep treats only moderately interesting, unless your pup isn't showing interest in them. Cheerios make good early treats and Charlee Bear All Natural treats are also a good choice.

9. Books
Check out the Puppy Raising and Training Diary for Dummies and the Everything Dog Training and Tricks book.

Cures for Cabin Fever

When it's cold and blustery outside, it's only natural that we humans become less active, shunning outdoor activities in favor of those that take place in nice warm buildings. Unfortunately for our dogs, that means fewer walks and fewer trips to the park and that is the recipe for bored dogs. Bored dogs look for ways to entertain themselves, often in inappropriate places, such as the garbage can, the laundry basket, or by pestering the cat.

A trip to one of the many indoor dog parks that are sprouting up all over the country may be just what the doctor ordered and a day or two a week at a doggie daycare like Camp BowWow will help them burn off all that excess energy too. You might also consider signing up for obedience or agilty classes at your local dog training center or pet store. If you're too busy to get out you can invite a trainer into your home from a company such as Dog Training in Your Home. You can find a list of trainers and training facilities at the Association of Pet Dog Trainer's website.

But cabin fever can be cured at home as well with games, such as those you will find inside this blog and fun toys that keep your dog's mind engaged. One of the most inexpensive and fun toys that you can provide for your dog is a bottle or jug with a bit of kibble and treats inside of it. If your dog is particularly fidgety, you can give him all of his meals from his feeding bottle or from a Kong. It's messy, but effective.

Clever dogs, like clever children, enjoy solving puzzles. Check out fun products from Ethical Pet, Nina Ottoson, Kyjen for some cabin fever cures that will keep both you and your pet entertained for hours!

Games Good Dogs Play: Three Ways to Stay!

http://www.thegooddogjournal.com/2011/01/treat-abcs.htmlChances are you've attended an obedience course or two and you and your dog have practiced the "stay" command in sit and down, and possibly even in the stand position. Your dog probably stays quite well in a controlled practice situation without alot of distractions. But what happens if you walk away, or someone else leaves the room or you pet's favorite toy suddenly rolls off the table onto the floor? Every time your dog breaks a stay he learns that it's okay and even fun. Stay is boring, greeting newcomers, following you to see what you're up to or pouncing on a toy is probably alot more rewarding to him. But you can make "stay" more interesting by making it a game.

Game 1 I'll be Right Back

This game assumes that your dog already knows the "stay" command and can stay reasonably well if you are standing right in front of him or walk a few feet away. This game works best with dogs who are food motivated.

The set up:  Let your dog follow you around as you place several small containers or piles of tasty treats out of his reach around the room. Three or four spots will do. For example if you're in the living room put a small pile of treats on a window, one on the mantle, one on the book shelf and one on the top of the TV stand. Each pile should contain a 3-5 treats. (If your dog is very food motivated you may need to start with less interesting treats in the beginning or he may find it too hard to focus on his stay. You can add more interesting treats later (See Treat ABCs) once he gets the hang of it.)

The Rules: Your dog must sit (or down or stand) and stay while you retrieve treats from around the room to bring to him one at a time. If he gets up, he forfeits his treat and you start over from the beginning. If he stays in position, he gets a treat.

Game Play: Call your dog over to you and have him sit, stand or lay down and tell him to stay. Once he is in position and the command has been given move to the nearest treat stash, pick up a treat, return to him and give him your reward marker and his treat. Remind him to stay and then move to the next treat stash and repeat. Once you've gone through all the treat stashes, give him the release command while you are right in front of him and tell him what an awesome dog he is.

If your dog breaks his stay during his this game, give him the no reward marker and return to him quickly. If you already have a treat in your hand, slip it into your pocket. He does not get this treat. You may return it to the pile on your next trip. Return him to his original position, repeat the stay command and proceed with the game.

For beginners: The first few times you play this game, place all the treat piles on one side of the room and have your dog stay facing that side of the room so you don't have to go around behind him. Back away from your dog toward the treat stash maintaining eye contact at all times. Once he gets the hang of it, you can start turning your back on him, glancing over your shoulder frequently to let him know you're still watching.

Intermediate Level: Place treats all around the room so the you have to walk around behind him and off to the side to retrieve them. Turn your back as you walk away but keep your ears open for the sound of him breaking his stay! Move around the room at a steady, confident pace. You do not have to take a direct route to the treats.

Advanced Level: Place treats in other rooms as well so that you have to leave the room to retrieve some of them. Keep your ears open for the sound of him breaking his stay and get back to him quickly. Increase your pace around the room. Get the kids involved and have them run to grab the treats and back to deliver them.

Trouble Shooting: If at any level you find your dog is breaking his stay more than three times in a row, go back to the previous level, even if he has performed successfully at this level before. If he still has trouble, make him perform a very basic stay for about 10 to 20 seconds and reward that so you can end on a positive note. Move on to something else or relax for awhile and try again.

If your dog just doesn't get the whole "stay while I fetch the treat" thing, call in a second person to help. The second person should stand next to your dog and have a hold of his leash while you go off slowly to fetch the treats. If your dog breaks his stay, you freeze while the second person gives the no reward marker and re-establishes the stay. Once your dog is back in position, unfreeze and continue. Repeat. He'll get it.

Game 2: Don't Fetch Just Yet

This game works best for dogs who love balls and assumes that your dog already has the basic idea of "fetch" and enjoys it. It is a valuable game to play with ball obsessed dogs to help them learn to help them contain the mania a bit. If your dog prefers to fetch another toy, such as a Frisbee or a dumbbell, feel free to use that instead of a ball.

The Setup: All you need is your dog, a leash and a ball. If your dog isn't good at retrieving or releasing the ball, you may need a second ball or a pocket full of treats to help him along. This an all off leash games should only be played in a secure fenced area or indoors.

The Rules: Your dog must sit and stay before you throw the ball. Then he must continue to sit and stay until you release him to chase the ball.

Game Play: Call your dog over and have him sit and stay. Hold the leash firmly and make sure you have a wide, firm stance, especially if your dog is large and you are small. Now toss the ball gently, underhand, in the direction your dog is facing. If he dashes after the ball, use the leash to restrain him and put him back into his sit/stay position. Keep him there for about five seconds, then release him and say "Go get it!" (or "fetch" or whatever) in an excited voice. Once he gets the ball, call him to return to you. Then give him the drop command or trade the ball for a treat. Repeat until you're beat. It usually only takes 3 or 4 repetitions before the dog gets the "you can't get the ball till I release you" thing.

Beginner: Always throw the ball in the direction your dog is facing, never off to the side or over his head. Begin with a gentle roll and advance to farther and higher throws.

Intermediate: Throw the ball off to the side.

Advanced: Throw the ball over your dog's head and behind him.

Trouble Shooting: If at any time your dog seems to have forgotten the rules, go back a step and work your way up again, even if your dog has performed well at this level before.

Some dogs will forget they ever wanted to fetch the ball in the first place if you make them stay too long. Keep the stays short at first and gradually increase them. Once your dog is staying long enough to forget all about the ball, it's not a game anymore so why do it?

For very large and powerful dogs, you may want to have one person control the dog while the other throws the ball the first few times to avoid dislocated shoulders.

Game 3: Stay While I Take This
This dog works best for toy motivated dogs. In addition to strengthening stay, this game also strengthens retrieval skills, builds impulse control and provides a great deal of mental stimulation.

The Setup: You  will need a toy your dog likes quite well. His favorite toy might be too much of a distraction at first, depending on how focused he is on it. The first few times you play this game you may want to have a second person holding your dog on a leash until he learns the rules. A pocketful of treats is always helpful.


The Rules: Your dog must stay while you hide his toy.Once the toy is hidden, you will return to your dog's side and release him to go find it.

Game Play: Have your dog sit, stand or down and stay. Show him the toy. Walk  away and hide it. Return to your dog's side. Release him and tell him to go get it in an excited voice. If he has trouble, go along with him cheering him on the whole time. Once he has the toy, ask him to drop it, trading it for a treat every 3rd or 4th time.

Beginner: Move only a few feet away and "hide" the toy in plain sight. Slide it halfway under the couch, put it on the floor and place a towel over it, etc. Then return to his side and release him. Do not wave the toy around, shake it or squeak it at this level.

Intermediate: Walk into an a-joining room and squeak the toy or drop it heavily on the floor as you place it in plain sight, then return to your dog's side, release him and go along with him to find the toy.

Advanced: Actually hide the toy. You may need to go along with your dog to find it the first few times. Remember to let him now how great he is when he finds it. And be fair- no closed doors, no high shelves or furniture he's not allowed on!

Troubleshooting: At each level you may need to have a second person restrain your dog as you walk off with his favorite toy at first. Once your helper has given the signal that your dog is in position and calm, you can return and release him to go find the toy. He will eventually learn that this is fun game and it all goes better if he follows the rules and you'll be able to send your helper packing, especially if he is rewarded with a treat or, better yet, a quick game of tug or fetch when he returns the toy.

As with all exercises, if find your dog is having trouble at a certain level, back up to a lower level for the day.

If your dog is having trouble finding the toy, go along with him on the search and don't be afraid to give lots of hints (point! Dogs and humans uniquely understand pointing.) Some dogs simply aren't cut out for search and will have more fun digging up what you point at than figuring it out for themselves.

Treat ABCs

If your dog is food motivated, using treats as rewards can help you reach your training goals quickly and painlessly. But not all treats are created equal. Sometimes treats are a hindrance, their very presence so distracting that your dog is too concerned with figuring out what's in your pocket to pay attention to the fact that you're talking to him. Some treats are worth sitting for, but maybe not worth doing anything more complicated than that and the treat that was good enough last week might be the same old same old today. Treats must be used wisely and one way to do this is to grade them as many trainers do.

I personally was taught to grade treats as A, B and C with A being the highest value treat and C being the lowest value treat. Here's how it works.

C Treats
C treats are kibble, milk bones and other dry, non-fragrant treats. They are nothing special but, if your dog is hungry, already in the mood to work, or just enjoys working he might work for them. Very food motivated dogs will usually be happy with a C treat in situations where there aren't a lot of distractions.
In short, C treats are for everyday training in a controlled situation with a food motivated dog.

B Treats
B Treats tend to be moister and have more fragrance to them. These are every day treats for dogs who aren't as food motivated and special treats for highly food motivated dogs. Assuming your dog will work for C treats, you can move to B treats when you make things harder or add distractions. If your dog will not work for an C treat, you'll use B treats when teaching something new.

A Treats
A treats are liver, cheese, amazing things. Highly food motivated dogs are likely to lose all self control when these treats are around and should only be given them for things like "come" and "emergency come", otherwise you may have a hard time getting him to focus. For dogs who aren't as food motivated, these treats should be used in high distraction situations. (Though you should always take care when using high value treats in the presence of other animals to avoid food aggression incidents.)

Basic Rules for ALL Treats

Treats used for training should always be very small. Your dog should not be spending time chewing. He only needs a small taste to feel rewarded. As an example, if you use Zuke's Chicken-Flavored Mini Naturals Dog Treats you can cut them into quarters before using them as training treats Milk-Bone Dog Biscuits can be smashed with a hammer.

You must be careful to count your dog's training treats into his daily calories and adjust his daily food rations accordingly. Obesity is a common and dangerous health problem for dogs.