Games Good Dogs Play: Say Please!
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Saturday, November 7, 2009
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Canine to Five Howl O Ween Party
NOTE: I am not at all affiliated with these folks, I'm just passing this on.
DETROIT – Spooky pooches and their owners can get dressed-up and have a blast at Canine to Five Detroit's Howl-ween party on October 25, 1 – 4 p.m. The event will include contests for spookiest costume, owner and pet look-alike costume, funniest costume and most creative costume. There will also be fun activities for your furry friends such as bobbing for balls, biscuit in a haystack, and trick and treat.
Howl-ween is $5 per dog in a costume and $10 per dog without a costume. Admission includes entry fees for the contests and activities, and access to Canine to Five's 4,500 square feet of indoor dog park and 8,000 square feet of secured outdoor dog park space.
"Howl-ween is another great way to enjoy the season while spending time with your dog and meeting other dog owners and new friends," said Liz Blondy, Canine to Five owner. "We've had great success with our organized dog events, such as drinking with dogs this summer, and I expect Howl-ween to be a lot of fun."
Canine to Five is Metro Detroit's only dog daycare, boarding, and grooming facility, located in the heart of Detroit's Historic Midtown Neighborhood. The facilities includes 4,500 square feet of cage-free, indoor climate-controlled play space and 8,000 square feet of secured, fenced in, well-lit outdoor play space, separate play area for puppies, small dogs, and quiet time, and one dozen large secure kennels for our overnight guests.
Canine to Five: Detroit Dog Daycare is located at 3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit, just south of Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. It's regular business hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. with the exception of the dog park days and the puppy socials.
For more information, visit www.detroitdogdaycare.com.
DETROIT – Spooky pooches and their owners can get dressed-up and have a blast at Canine to Five Detroit's Howl-ween party on October 25, 1 – 4 p.m. The event will include contests for spookiest costume, owner and pet look-alike costume, funniest costume and most creative costume. There will also be fun activities for your furry friends such as bobbing for balls, biscuit in a haystack, and trick and treat.
Howl-ween is $5 per dog in a costume and $10 per dog without a costume. Admission includes entry fees for the contests and activities, and access to Canine to Five's 4,500 square feet of indoor dog park and 8,000 square feet of secured outdoor dog park space.
"Howl-ween is another great way to enjoy the season while spending time with your dog and meeting other dog owners and new friends," said Liz Blondy, Canine to Five owner. "We've had great success with our organized dog events, such as drinking with dogs this summer, and I expect Howl-ween to be a lot of fun."
Canine to Five is Metro Detroit's only dog daycare, boarding, and grooming facility, located in the heart of Detroit's Historic Midtown Neighborhood. The facilities includes 4,500 square feet of cage-free, indoor climate-controlled play space and 8,000 square feet of secured, fenced in, well-lit outdoor play space, separate play area for puppies, small dogs, and quiet time, and one dozen large secure kennels for our overnight guests.
Canine to Five: Detroit Dog Daycare is located at 3443 Cass Avenue, Detroit, just south of Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. It's regular business hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. with the exception of the dog park days and the puppy socials.
For more information, visit www.detroitdogdaycare.com.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Monday, September 28, 2009
Dog First Aid & CPR Class
FYI
The Bull Terrier Club of Metro Detroit is hosting a
Red Cross Dog First Aid & CPR Class on Sunday October 25th, 2009
To be held at:
Flushing Township Offices
6524 N. Seymour Road
Flushing, MI 48433
Time: 1-4 pm
Cost: $40.00 per person
Contact: Diane Thomas at: 1-810-845-2901 by October 7, 2009 if you would like to attend. There will be a limit of 40 people
Each participant will receive from Red Cross a manual and DVD covering what you learned during the presentation.
The Bull Terrier Club of Metro Detroit is hosting a
Red Cross Dog First Aid & CPR Class on Sunday October 25th, 2009
To be held at:
Flushing Township Offices
6524 N. Seymour Road
Flushing, MI 48433
Time: 1-4 pm
Cost: $40.00 per person
Contact: Diane Thomas at: 1-810-845-2901 by October 7, 2009 if you would like to attend. There will be a limit of 40 people
Each participant will receive from Red Cross a manual and DVD covering what you learned during the presentation.
Friday, September 4, 2009
My Babies are Growing Up
This weekend my daughter and her little dog are competing in their first agility trial! Check out the PDF link for more information if you'd like to come out and cheer us on! We'll be there on Saturday doing "Jumper" and "Standard".
(it's so exciting!!)
(it's so exciting!!)
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer
Check out this article (written by me) at Examiner. com
Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer
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Get Your Money's Worth from Your Trainer
Posted using ShareThis
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Upcoming Agility in Michigan
The following TWO messages were posted at the MI Dog Event Info yahoo group. I am just passing them along.
If your schedule is clear and you are looking for some great fun with your 17" or under dog, have been doing agility and want to check out a venue you have yet to try, come on up to Pine Meadow's farm in South Boardman, Michigan (East of Traverse City) and try Teacup Agility (TDAA-Teacup Dog Agility Association) at our trial this weekend. Our judge is Margaret Henderschot from Ohio. She will also be doing a short distance workshop on Friday afternoon (space is limited but we may be able to squeeze in another or 2) plus two games to try out your new distance skills. Saturday and Sunday will have 2 standard and 2 games each day-more distance games. Come and join the fun.
If you are not familiar with TDAA, it is the ONLY venue I know of where you can register your dag at the trial site and RUN your dog the same weekend. We will also have sufficient judges on site to measure your dogs for their jump height card. It is the TDAA Trifecta-Register, Run and Get your Jump height card in one fun weekend.
As always, we accept day of trial entries, so if your plans change and grandma's birthday party has been postponed come and enjoy the fun. If you have never tried TDAA you may also run your dog FEO (For Exhibition Only) just to get a taste of the smaller equipment and closer quarters.
In any case we always have fun.
For more information, please contact me at beekeeper@tm.net and I can send the premium. In case you get hooked on this venue, we have 4 other trials scheduled for this year, also.
Coleene Davidson
Trial Secretary
Also
Starting in May outside on grass in a fully fenced 100'X100' ring located in
Milan Mi
Instructor: Kari Morningstar
May 4th Monday 6:30 to 7:30 Intro Agility
Dogs will be introduced to the obstacles at low heights, learn targeting and
foundation work.
May 6th Wed. 6:30 to 7:30 Foundation/Intro Agility
This class will be geared towads those that want to compete later. You will be
working on foundation,ground work, Targeting and introduced to the obstacles.
May 7th Thursday 6:00 to 7:00pm Agility !!
Dogs must know all the obstacles. Dogs and handlers will be working on their
handling skills and sequences and should be doing full heights on all obstacles.
May 7th Thursday 7:15 to 8:15 Competition Agility
This class is for the dogs that are already competing. Dogs and handlers will be
working on advance sequences and course work.
If enough interest I can set up day classes. I also offer private and semi
private lessons.
For more info or to register contact Kari Morningstar @ 734 439-3811
If your schedule is clear and you are looking for some great fun with your 17" or under dog, have been doing agility and want to check out a venue you have yet to try, come on up to Pine Meadow's farm in South Boardman, Michigan (East of Traverse City) and try Teacup Agility (TDAA-Teacup Dog Agility Association) at our trial this weekend. Our judge is Margaret Henderschot from Ohio. She will also be doing a short distance workshop on Friday afternoon (space is limited but we may be able to squeeze in another or 2) plus two games to try out your new distance skills. Saturday and Sunday will have 2 standard and 2 games each day-more distance games. Come and join the fun.
If you are not familiar with TDAA, it is the ONLY venue I know of where you can register your dag at the trial site and RUN your dog the same weekend. We will also have sufficient judges on site to measure your dogs for their jump height card. It is the TDAA Trifecta-Register, Run and Get your Jump height card in one fun weekend.
As always, we accept day of trial entries, so if your plans change and grandma's birthday party has been postponed come and enjoy the fun. If you have never tried TDAA you may also run your dog FEO (For Exhibition Only) just to get a taste of the smaller equipment and closer quarters.
In any case we always have fun.
For more information, please contact me at beekeeper@tm.net and I can send the premium. In case you get hooked on this venue, we have 4 other trials scheduled for this year, also.
Coleene Davidson
Trial Secretary
Also
Starting in May outside on grass in a fully fenced 100'X100' ring located in
Milan Mi
Instructor: Kari Morningstar
May 4th Monday 6:30 to 7:30 Intro Agility
Dogs will be introduced to the obstacles at low heights, learn targeting and
foundation work.
May 6th Wed. 6:30 to 7:30 Foundation/Intro Agility
This class will be geared towads those that want to compete later. You will be
working on foundation,ground work, Targeting and introduced to the obstacles.
May 7th Thursday 6:00 to 7:00pm Agility !!
Dogs must know all the obstacles. Dogs and handlers will be working on their
handling skills and sequences and should be doing full heights on all obstacles.
May 7th Thursday 7:15 to 8:15 Competition Agility
This class is for the dogs that are already competing. Dogs and handlers will be
working on advance sequences and course work.
If enough interest I can set up day classes. I also offer private and semi
private lessons.
For more info or to register contact Kari Morningstar @ 734 439-3811
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Who's the Boss? Establishing Pack Leadership
Many behavioral problems are rooted in pack leadership issues and often disappear once the dog has firmly established his place at the bottom of the pack. Unfortunately, humans don't think like dogs so owners often don't associate many dominant behaviors with dominance. It can look like affection, even submission, so it's very common for a dog to be confused about his place in the household based on mixed signals from the owner. If you want a well-behaved dog, it is imperative that your dog knows that he is the low man on the totem pole, otherwise you face the risk that your dog will begin competing for position with you, other household members, children and guests.
Humans and Dogs, Differing Points of View
Most people I talk to about pack leadership are concerned that their dog will be sad if he is forced to the bottom rung of the social ladder. But dogs don't look at it like we do. Being a leader is hard work and most dogs are perfectly happy to let someone else take the job over. Dogs are put into alot of situations they don't understand, therefore it's best to let the humans, who created the situations and understand them, handle it.
When your dog looks up at you with those puppy eyes, he's not necessarily sad. Those eyes evolved as a survival trait to keep us humans taking good care of our dogs even after they ate our favorite chair. It's a defense mechanism and, at times, a weapon. If you're dog isn't eating, is being lethargic and doesn't want to play, he may be sad (or sick) but if our dogs were deeply sad every time they looked at us like that, they would all need puppy prozac.
A canine pack leader is going to try to keep the status quo, he's going to challenge invaders, freak out about major (and sometimes minor) changes in the environment and maybe even be really nervous when he leaves the terretory and people he's responsible for. If you take all that pressure off him he will be happier, even if that submissive look he gives you brings you to tears. Trust me.
Behavior and Leadership
Dogs who are struggling with their perceived leadership role in the household may exhibit many behaviors that seem very practical from the dog's point of view.
Marking Territory In the pack, the dominant dog marks his territory, it's just the way of things. He is saying, "My pack lives here and if you don't like it, find me and we'll discuss it!". If there is a person who lives in the house who has an ambiguous place in the pack or who the dog perceives to be a threat to his position in the pack, the dog may feel inclined to pee on that person's stuff as well. If your dog is pretty much house trained but is marking around the house or specifically marking some member of the household's belongings, you could be dealing with a pack leadership issue.
Aggression In the wild, canines approaching adulthood may challenge the pack leader for his position. If they are successful they assume the leadership role but may still squabble with their peers over it for awhile until things are settled. If there is no decisive victory one way or another, a canine will bide his time and repeat the challenge periodically until he is successful. If your dog is being aggressive, guarding food, comfy chairs, toys and other things, or growling or barking at you instead of obeying commands, you could have a pack leadership issue. Remember also that the pack leader is responsible for the defense of the pack. It's not surprising then that he should attack the occasional unauthorized (by him) visitor! Your dominant dog may also periodically attack family members who are behaving in ways that seem to him to be challenging or dominating.
Anxiety Being the pack leader is hard work, especially if various members of your pack aren't acting appropriately submissive. This could lead to various anxiety issues. Separation anxiety is one of these because the pack leader should know where his pack is at all times, otherwise how is he to protect them?
Barking Since the pack leader is responsible for maintaining the security of the pack, it's not surprising that he should bark to warn the pack of danger and continue barking to scare away the threat until the danger is passed and since he's the boss, it is even more urgent that he continue barking if you just don't get it!
Begging and Stealing Food: The pack leader gets what he wants. It's only natural that if he comes across a delicious slice of pizza sitting there unattended he's going to think it's his very right to grab it and take off with it. Likewise he's going to expect you to turn over a tidbit if he stares at you expectantly long enough.
Common Submissive Human Behaviors
Many of our affectionate human behaviors can be seen as submissive to a dog and can lead him to believe that you actually want him to take on the leadership role, or leave him terribly confused about exactly what it is he's supposed to be doing.
Since puppies often lick the muzzle of the dominant dog as an show of appeasement and to ask for a share of the food, kissing your dog on the mouth can confuse the heck out of him (and is a good way for a kid to get bit, especially if there are also hugs involved so the poor confused fellow can't back away from the strange confusing human).
In a pack situation, the dominant canine often goes on patrol, sometimes with other members of the pack. When they return, everyone greets the pack leader first (often licking the muzzle) so when your dog is the first person you greet when you come in the door, you are affirming that you are submissive to him. You should ignore your dog when you come home and greet other family members first then call the dog over for some attention.
The pack leader gets the best of everything including the best spots to lay down. You will often find the leader of a wild canine pack sitting on the highest perch, looking down over his subjects. By allowing your dog to sit on the furniture or lay on your bed, especially if he is positioned so that his head is higher than yours, you are affirming his status as pack leader.
The pack leader also gets the best food. If another canine is eating and the pack leader decides he wants some, the other canine will immediately move aside to allow the pack leader to eat. If you pause in your meal and feed your dog from your plate, you are affirming his place as pack leader.
The pack leader always goes first. He must because it's his job to challange any threats and protect his pack. So again, if you let your dog pull ahead of you on the leash, you're allowing him to assert his dominance.
Walk the Dominant Walk
Maintaining pack leadership with your dog is hard work and it's not always fun. Many people got their dog thinking it was going to be a cuddly plaything. It's especially difficult to teach kids to maintain pack leadership, but it's important that every family member learns how to behave like a pack leader and maintain consistancy.
Obedience: Obedience training is paramount and make sure everyone in the family practices frequently. Be firm and consistant. Make sure that you give the message that you expect obedience every time. Correct your dog with a firm no (and a leash correction only if necessary) when he doesn't obey and then make him do it. Reward immediate complience with praise and the occasional treat.
Always go first: Train your dog to wait at the door, at the stairs and at any opening and allow you to go first. It helps to teach sit and stay and/or down and stay first so your dog has an idea about not moving on command. When out walking, if your dog pulls ahead on the leash reverse direction and move away quickly so you're always out front. He'll get the idea eventually. You should be walking your dog daily, for so many reasons!
Control the Food: Never give your dog food unless he has earned it. When it is time to feed your dog, make him sit and stay while you prepare the food. Then put it down and make him hold his stay for a few seconds till you tell him it's okay to eat it. Also, make your dog earn his treats. Make him sit, lay down, or do a cute trick before he gets any snacks. If you want to feed him a treat from the table, set it aside and make him work for it after everyone else is done eating.
Make him Earn Everything: (Dogs who learn this trick learn lots of tricks!) including pets, bellyrubs, being allowed on the sofa, a walk, a ride in the car, a raucus game of fetch or tug of war ALL must be earned by following a command or two from you. If your dog brings you a toy or pushes at your hand for pets, ignore him until he stops and then you can call him over for attention. It should always be on your terms.
Don't Greet the Dog First: When you come home, the dog should be the last person you greet when you come home. If you live alone, ignore the dog while you take off your coat and shoes and hang up your keys and then call him over when you're ready to relax.
The Canine Sidekick
Female dogs especially (but male dogs as well sometimes) may decide to be the "second in command" to a dominant dog or person in the household and this can cause a whole range of new problems. She may not listen to anyone but the person she has decided is top man (or woman) and may guard the person, showing aggression toward her master's spouse or children. In this case, it is very important that other members of the household maintain pack leadership behaviors and that the object of the dog's adoration display behaviors toward other family members that will give the dog the idea that they are more dominant. For example, not allowing the dog on the bed or sofa, but moving over to allow family members on; greeting other family members first; insisting that all other family members finish eating before feeding the dog. It is also important that the object of adoration not be the only person performing doggie care duties. Everyone should take turns walking, feeding and grooming the dog so that he knows that everyone is the boss.
Different Strokes for Different Dogs
Although I have used "him" and "he" throughout this article, don't think that only male dogs assert their dominance, female dogs do too and if you have a male dog and a female dog they may both assert their dominance and get along just fine doing it.
Not every dog tries to be the boss of the house. Some dogs take on the dominant role just because there is no strong leader in the house and that is an unacceptable way for a dog to live. Some dogs will be submissive no matter what. All dogs will be more comfortable, safer and happier in the long run if you take on the dominance role and allow them to be what you really want them to be, your pet. (not the boss!)
Humans and Dogs, Differing Points of View
Most people I talk to about pack leadership are concerned that their dog will be sad if he is forced to the bottom rung of the social ladder. But dogs don't look at it like we do. Being a leader is hard work and most dogs are perfectly happy to let someone else take the job over. Dogs are put into alot of situations they don't understand, therefore it's best to let the humans, who created the situations and understand them, handle it.
When your dog looks up at you with those puppy eyes, he's not necessarily sad. Those eyes evolved as a survival trait to keep us humans taking good care of our dogs even after they ate our favorite chair. It's a defense mechanism and, at times, a weapon. If you're dog isn't eating, is being lethargic and doesn't want to play, he may be sad (or sick) but if our dogs were deeply sad every time they looked at us like that, they would all need puppy prozac.
A canine pack leader is going to try to keep the status quo, he's going to challenge invaders, freak out about major (and sometimes minor) changes in the environment and maybe even be really nervous when he leaves the terretory and people he's responsible for. If you take all that pressure off him he will be happier, even if that submissive look he gives you brings you to tears. Trust me.
Behavior and Leadership
Dogs who are struggling with their perceived leadership role in the household may exhibit many behaviors that seem very practical from the dog's point of view.
Marking Territory In the pack, the dominant dog marks his territory, it's just the way of things. He is saying, "My pack lives here and if you don't like it, find me and we'll discuss it!". If there is a person who lives in the house who has an ambiguous place in the pack or who the dog perceives to be a threat to his position in the pack, the dog may feel inclined to pee on that person's stuff as well. If your dog is pretty much house trained but is marking around the house or specifically marking some member of the household's belongings, you could be dealing with a pack leadership issue.
Aggression In the wild, canines approaching adulthood may challenge the pack leader for his position. If they are successful they assume the leadership role but may still squabble with their peers over it for awhile until things are settled. If there is no decisive victory one way or another, a canine will bide his time and repeat the challenge periodically until he is successful. If your dog is being aggressive, guarding food, comfy chairs, toys and other things, or growling or barking at you instead of obeying commands, you could have a pack leadership issue. Remember also that the pack leader is responsible for the defense of the pack. It's not surprising then that he should attack the occasional unauthorized (by him) visitor! Your dominant dog may also periodically attack family members who are behaving in ways that seem to him to be challenging or dominating.
Anxiety Being the pack leader is hard work, especially if various members of your pack aren't acting appropriately submissive. This could lead to various anxiety issues. Separation anxiety is one of these because the pack leader should know where his pack is at all times, otherwise how is he to protect them?
Barking Since the pack leader is responsible for maintaining the security of the pack, it's not surprising that he should bark to warn the pack of danger and continue barking to scare away the threat until the danger is passed and since he's the boss, it is even more urgent that he continue barking if you just don't get it!
Begging and Stealing Food: The pack leader gets what he wants. It's only natural that if he comes across a delicious slice of pizza sitting there unattended he's going to think it's his very right to grab it and take off with it. Likewise he's going to expect you to turn over a tidbit if he stares at you expectantly long enough.
Common Submissive Human Behaviors
Many of our affectionate human behaviors can be seen as submissive to a dog and can lead him to believe that you actually want him to take on the leadership role, or leave him terribly confused about exactly what it is he's supposed to be doing.
Since puppies often lick the muzzle of the dominant dog as an show of appeasement and to ask for a share of the food, kissing your dog on the mouth can confuse the heck out of him (and is a good way for a kid to get bit, especially if there are also hugs involved so the poor confused fellow can't back away from the strange confusing human).
In a pack situation, the dominant canine often goes on patrol, sometimes with other members of the pack. When they return, everyone greets the pack leader first (often licking the muzzle) so when your dog is the first person you greet when you come in the door, you are affirming that you are submissive to him. You should ignore your dog when you come home and greet other family members first then call the dog over for some attention.
The pack leader gets the best of everything including the best spots to lay down. You will often find the leader of a wild canine pack sitting on the highest perch, looking down over his subjects. By allowing your dog to sit on the furniture or lay on your bed, especially if he is positioned so that his head is higher than yours, you are affirming his status as pack leader.
The pack leader also gets the best food. If another canine is eating and the pack leader decides he wants some, the other canine will immediately move aside to allow the pack leader to eat. If you pause in your meal and feed your dog from your plate, you are affirming his place as pack leader.
The pack leader always goes first. He must because it's his job to challange any threats and protect his pack. So again, if you let your dog pull ahead of you on the leash, you're allowing him to assert his dominance.
Walk the Dominant Walk
Maintaining pack leadership with your dog is hard work and it's not always fun. Many people got their dog thinking it was going to be a cuddly plaything. It's especially difficult to teach kids to maintain pack leadership, but it's important that every family member learns how to behave like a pack leader and maintain consistancy.
Obedience: Obedience training is paramount and make sure everyone in the family practices frequently. Be firm and consistant. Make sure that you give the message that you expect obedience every time. Correct your dog with a firm no (and a leash correction only if necessary) when he doesn't obey and then make him do it. Reward immediate complience with praise and the occasional treat.
Always go first: Train your dog to wait at the door, at the stairs and at any opening and allow you to go first. It helps to teach sit and stay and/or down and stay first so your dog has an idea about not moving on command. When out walking, if your dog pulls ahead on the leash reverse direction and move away quickly so you're always out front. He'll get the idea eventually. You should be walking your dog daily, for so many reasons!
Control the Food: Never give your dog food unless he has earned it. When it is time to feed your dog, make him sit and stay while you prepare the food. Then put it down and make him hold his stay for a few seconds till you tell him it's okay to eat it. Also, make your dog earn his treats. Make him sit, lay down, or do a cute trick before he gets any snacks. If you want to feed him a treat from the table, set it aside and make him work for it after everyone else is done eating.
Make him Earn Everything: (Dogs who learn this trick learn lots of tricks!) including pets, bellyrubs, being allowed on the sofa, a walk, a ride in the car, a raucus game of fetch or tug of war ALL must be earned by following a command or two from you. If your dog brings you a toy or pushes at your hand for pets, ignore him until he stops and then you can call him over for attention. It should always be on your terms.
Don't Greet the Dog First: When you come home, the dog should be the last person you greet when you come home. If you live alone, ignore the dog while you take off your coat and shoes and hang up your keys and then call him over when you're ready to relax.
The Canine Sidekick
Female dogs especially (but male dogs as well sometimes) may decide to be the "second in command" to a dominant dog or person in the household and this can cause a whole range of new problems. She may not listen to anyone but the person she has decided is top man (or woman) and may guard the person, showing aggression toward her master's spouse or children. In this case, it is very important that other members of the household maintain pack leadership behaviors and that the object of the dog's adoration display behaviors toward other family members that will give the dog the idea that they are more dominant. For example, not allowing the dog on the bed or sofa, but moving over to allow family members on; greeting other family members first; insisting that all other family members finish eating before feeding the dog. It is also important that the object of adoration not be the only person performing doggie care duties. Everyone should take turns walking, feeding and grooming the dog so that he knows that everyone is the boss.
Different Strokes for Different Dogs
Although I have used "him" and "he" throughout this article, don't think that only male dogs assert their dominance, female dogs do too and if you have a male dog and a female dog they may both assert their dominance and get along just fine doing it.
Not every dog tries to be the boss of the house. Some dogs take on the dominant role just because there is no strong leader in the house and that is an unacceptable way for a dog to live. Some dogs will be submissive no matter what. All dogs will be more comfortable, safer and happier in the long run if you take on the dominance role and allow them to be what you really want them to be, your pet. (not the boss!)
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Housebreaking Made Easy
Housebreaking isn't rocket science, but it does take time, patience and diligence. Housebreaking is most often a puppy thing which makes it difficult because puppies are excitable and have small bladders. Sometimes it's an adult dog thing, perhaps your recent adoption has never been inside a house before or a major change in your household has your adult dog regressing. Regardless of the situation, the methods are pretty much the same and results are just as reliable. You can expect your dog to get the idea within the first week and to be reasonably trustworthy by the end of the first month.
Is it medical? If your previously housebroken dog has begun making inappropriate messes, take him to the vet first to make sure there isn't an infection or another medical issue that could be causing his uncharacteristic behavior.
The Right Tools for the Job
As with any job, there are a few tools of the trade that make housebreaking easier. Have these on hand from day one and housebreaking your dog will be a breeze.
1. A crate will keep your dog confined when you can't watch him. Because dogs instinctively avoid soiling their nesting area, most dogs can be relied upon not to have accidents in their crates. Please see my article about crate training your dog. If you do not want to use a crate, you should still have a small spot to confine your dog in, even if you use a tether.
2. A 6 foot leash is required for obvious reasons. During the training period you should leave the leash on your dog whenever he isn't confined so you can get him to his potty area quickly. You will have to go out with him for the first week or two.
3. Choose a relief station for your dog. If you are training your dog to use a potty pad then this will be his relief station. Otherwise, select an area of the yard about 10 x 10 feet for your dog to use as his relief station. You may want to mark this area with stones or other edging or cover it with mulch or pea gravel to distinguish it from the rest of the yard. Your dog should only have one relief station. If you are training your dog to a potty pad you cannot also train him to the yard and vice versa because it will just confuse him. If you want your dog to go outside once he's trained to the potty pad, bring a pad with you when you go out.
4. A jar of treats should be kept at the relief station so you can give your dog a treat the minute he goes potty. Don't wait till after you get back inside to give him a treat because at that point you don't know what your dog is thinking about and you can't be sure what he thinks he's being rewarded for.
5. A regular feeding schedule is important to housebreaking. Your dog should receive his food at the same time every day according to the schedule recommended by your veterinarian and he should have access to his food dish for only 15 minutes to a half hour. Free feeding is not recommended during housebreaking. You can anticipate when your dog may need to defecate based on the 8-10 hours it takes for his food to digest. Keep in mind that meals may get things moving too. Water should be offered more often and you can figure he will need to urinate about a half hour after he drinks.
6. Keep a notebook near the door so that you can keep a journal of each time your dog goes potty, inside or outside. This will help you learn his schedule and anticipate when he will need to go outside.
With these things in place, you are now ready to housebreak your dog.
Watch and Confine
Watch and confine is a simple concept that makes housebreaking easy. Your dog should be watched at all times during this period in a situation that allows you to quickly get ahold of him and take him outside to go potty. If you can't watch him, he needs to be confined to a small area, preferably a crate.
Every time your dog goes potty in the house he learns that it is okay to do so. You must catch your dog in the act in order to break this habit. You cannot punish him if the mess is discovered later because his mind has moved to something else and you cannot determine exactly what he thinks you're punishing him for at that time. If you point to a pile of poo and smack him, he may simply learn to hide the poo better next time.
When your dog squats to do his business in the house, say "No" loudly and firmly and grab his leash quickly. This should startle him into aborting the mission (though it doesn't always). Then quickly rush him to his relief station, point to it and say "Go potty" then wait. It could be awhile until he calms down enough to try again. When he does, praise him and give him a treat from the jar you have there at his relief station.
Watch for signals from your dog (circling, sniffing) but don't wait for them. Take your dog to his relief station when he first wakes up in the morning, before and after every meal and any time he has been confined for any length of time. Point to the spot, say "Go potty" and give him a treat when he does.
If your dog absolutely refuses to go potty at his relief station no matter how long you wait, consult your vet about stimulating bowel movements. She may supply you with a suppository. Make sure you ask her to explain how to use it and ask any questions you may have.
Remember that constancy is key in housebreaking and all training is consistency. You must catch your dog every time he goes indoors and at first, reward him every time he goes in his relief station. Soon you can begin phasing out rewards. You should be able to trust your dog a little more after about a week, but still keep a close eye on him and if he has any accidents go back to square one.
If you have any problems, you can consult a trainer or leave me a comment and I'll follow up.
Is it medical? If your previously housebroken dog has begun making inappropriate messes, take him to the vet first to make sure there isn't an infection or another medical issue that could be causing his uncharacteristic behavior.
The Right Tools for the Job
As with any job, there are a few tools of the trade that make housebreaking easier. Have these on hand from day one and housebreaking your dog will be a breeze.
1. A crate will keep your dog confined when you can't watch him. Because dogs instinctively avoid soiling their nesting area, most dogs can be relied upon not to have accidents in their crates. Please see my article about crate training your dog. If you do not want to use a crate, you should still have a small spot to confine your dog in, even if you use a tether.
2. A 6 foot leash is required for obvious reasons. During the training period you should leave the leash on your dog whenever he isn't confined so you can get him to his potty area quickly. You will have to go out with him for the first week or two.
3. Choose a relief station for your dog. If you are training your dog to use a potty pad then this will be his relief station. Otherwise, select an area of the yard about 10 x 10 feet for your dog to use as his relief station. You may want to mark this area with stones or other edging or cover it with mulch or pea gravel to distinguish it from the rest of the yard. Your dog should only have one relief station. If you are training your dog to a potty pad you cannot also train him to the yard and vice versa because it will just confuse him. If you want your dog to go outside once he's trained to the potty pad, bring a pad with you when you go out.
4. A jar of treats should be kept at the relief station so you can give your dog a treat the minute he goes potty. Don't wait till after you get back inside to give him a treat because at that point you don't know what your dog is thinking about and you can't be sure what he thinks he's being rewarded for.
5. A regular feeding schedule is important to housebreaking. Your dog should receive his food at the same time every day according to the schedule recommended by your veterinarian and he should have access to his food dish for only 15 minutes to a half hour. Free feeding is not recommended during housebreaking. You can anticipate when your dog may need to defecate based on the 8-10 hours it takes for his food to digest. Keep in mind that meals may get things moving too. Water should be offered more often and you can figure he will need to urinate about a half hour after he drinks.
6. Keep a notebook near the door so that you can keep a journal of each time your dog goes potty, inside or outside. This will help you learn his schedule and anticipate when he will need to go outside.
With these things in place, you are now ready to housebreak your dog.
Watch and Confine
Watch and confine is a simple concept that makes housebreaking easy. Your dog should be watched at all times during this period in a situation that allows you to quickly get ahold of him and take him outside to go potty. If you can't watch him, he needs to be confined to a small area, preferably a crate.
Every time your dog goes potty in the house he learns that it is okay to do so. You must catch your dog in the act in order to break this habit. You cannot punish him if the mess is discovered later because his mind has moved to something else and you cannot determine exactly what he thinks you're punishing him for at that time. If you point to a pile of poo and smack him, he may simply learn to hide the poo better next time.
When your dog squats to do his business in the house, say "No" loudly and firmly and grab his leash quickly. This should startle him into aborting the mission (though it doesn't always). Then quickly rush him to his relief station, point to it and say "Go potty" then wait. It could be awhile until he calms down enough to try again. When he does, praise him and give him a treat from the jar you have there at his relief station.
Watch for signals from your dog (circling, sniffing) but don't wait for them. Take your dog to his relief station when he first wakes up in the morning, before and after every meal and any time he has been confined for any length of time. Point to the spot, say "Go potty" and give him a treat when he does.
If your dog absolutely refuses to go potty at his relief station no matter how long you wait, consult your vet about stimulating bowel movements. She may supply you with a suppository. Make sure you ask her to explain how to use it and ask any questions you may have.
Remember that constancy is key in housebreaking and all training is consistency. You must catch your dog every time he goes indoors and at first, reward him every time he goes in his relief station. Soon you can begin phasing out rewards. You should be able to trust your dog a little more after about a week, but still keep a close eye on him and if he has any accidents go back to square one.
If you have any problems, you can consult a trainer or leave me a comment and I'll follow up.
Monday, January 5, 2009
The Legacy of Puppy Mills
What is a Puppy Mill?
A puppy mill is a business where dogs are kept and bred in large quantities specifically for the pet trade. These animals are not pets. They are often kept in cages and bred until they die. Most of their offspring are sold to pet stores, though a few may be kept for further breeding. Those that have obvious deformities or don't sell for other reasons are often destroyed or may be dumped at an animal shelter. Breeding matches are often made for appearance, if that much consideration is given and potential parents are rarely assessed with regard to health or temperament.
What is the Difference Between a Puppy Mill and a Reputable Breeder?
In contrast, most reputable breeders keep their dogs as pets, working dogs, athletes or show dogs, providing for their health and comfort, training them and giving them lots of attention. The personal attention these dogs gets allows the breeder to select for temperament, intelligence and health. Reputable breeders keep careful records and should be able to tell you not only who a puppy's mother and father are, but who their grandparents and even great grandparents are. Because of this, a breeder can identify which health issues might be a problem for the puppy in the future, if any. Reputable breeders often have their puppies tested for any possible heriditary problems. Those puppies that don't meet standards of health, appearance and temperment are usually neutered and sold at a lower cost while those who do meet these standards are sold for more and often are not neutered so that you have the option to breed them.
Because these breeders have an emotional investment in their animals, they will often make you sign a contract promising to bring your puppy back to them if you need to give him up for any reason. Reputable breeders charge more because they spend more money on preventative medicine than puppy mill breeders do. They also have fewer litters and so fewer puppies to sell because they are more concerned about the health of the mother.
Buying From Puppy Mills Hurts Millions of Dogs
Some people want to buy puppy mill puppies to save them. But in so doing they are supporting an industry thatcauses endless suffering.
* By breeding unhealthy animals, they create more unhealthy animals that may need to be put to sleep in the future by owners who have already come to love them.
* By breeding huge quantities of dogs without taking responsibility for finding them homes, they are adding to the growing problem of homeless pets. Animal shelters are already over capacity all over the country and puppy mills just add to the problem.
* Puppymill breeding methods are harmful to the health of the mother dogs, some of whom are forced to give birth three or more times a year until they die while often getting inadequate food and exercise.
While it may be heartbreaking to turn away from that puppy who needs you, there are many more in animal shelters who need you just as badly. Simple economics says that if everyone refused to buy puppy mill puppies, the industry would crumble. Faced with dozens of unwanted and unsaleable puppies, puppy mill operators would soon be seeking another line of work and those puppies would most likely end up in the shelter for you to adopt anyway.
Puppy Mill Puppies Often Have Serious Health and Behavior Problems
As a trainer, I have learned to identify puppy mill puppies by the behavioral challenges they present. Many puppies bred in puppy mills display psychological issues related to their early upbringing and because these are often beyond the scope of normal puppy behavior, they can be a challenge to address.
One of the most common issues is "dirty dog" syndrome. This is a dog that has not developed the natural inclination to keep his den clean. If a puppy is born in a cage and kept in a cage through his early development, he, his mother, and his litter mates are all forced to soil their den and soon get used to it. It becomes a normal behavior. Later when this puppy goes home with his new owner, housebreaking can be very difficult because most housebreaking methods depend on the natural desire that all dogs have for a nice, clean den. Once this has been essentially beaten out of a dog, it's very hard to get back.
Because a puppy mill breeder's main interest is producing and selling lots of puppies, their puppies may be taken away from their mother too soon. If a puppy is taken from his mother and siblings before he is at least 8 weeks old, he does not learn important skills of doggy etiquette. These dogs often do not have bite inhibition- an important skill that his mother would have taught him if she had the chance. This means that the puppy will not have the sense that his bite can hurt people by accident. Puppies often use their mouths during play. Dogs who never learned bite inhibition can seriously hurt other dogs and people without meaning to. The law prohibits the transport of puppies for sale at less than 56 days of age, but the sooner a mother is relieved of her puppies, the sooner she will be ready to breed again.
Because puppy mill breeders keep their dogs in cages they often must share with several other dogs. This can lead to competition for food and space causing puppies to develop resource aggression later in life and to be fearful of other dogs. They can also be fearful of humans since they have limited contact with their human caretakers at important developmental stages.
Puppy mill breeders sell their puppies to pet stores through dealers and health histories of their puppies and their parents are often unavailable. Those who show obvious problems are destroyed or surrendered and the people who buy their siblings are not warned about possible issues. Often breeder females are repeatedly bred even after they have shown signs of illness and this can have an effect on the physical and mental development of their pups.
How Can I be Sure I Don't Buy from a Puppy Mill?
Never buy from a pet store, flea market or webstore. Most pet stores obtain their puppies from puppy mills because it's cheaper and because most reputable breeders will not sell their puppies through a pet store- they want to meet the people they are selling to. Some pet stores feature dogs from animal shelters and this is a great opportunity to adopt a homeless animal. (If they make this claim, they should be able to tell you what shelter they are representing and they should provide you with that shelter's adoption application form. If in doubt, call the shelter to verify what the pet store is telling you.) If you want to be absolutely sure that your purchase isn't supporting puppy mills, go to your local animal shelter. If you are looking for a specific breed, they can refer you to a breed-specific rescue organization.
Ask to see your puppy's parents. If available, ask to examine their pedigrees. Handle the dogs to get an idea if they are used to human handling and that they appear healthy. Dogs who are not used to human handling may have been purchased just for breeding purposes.
Ask to see the area where your puppy and his parents live. If it is dirty, outdoors or separate from the rest of the family, use great caution. Puppies who are used to living in dirty conditions or outdoors can have housebreaking issues.
If the breeder claims that the puppies have had shots or have seen a veterinarian, ask for verification on paper. Everyone makes this claim. You want proof. Your vet will want to add this to your puppy's medical record. If you are in any doubt at all, call the veterinarian to verify the validity of the documents you are provided.
Visit The Humane Society's Puppy Buyer's Guide for more information.
What if I Have Already Bought a Puppy Mill Dog?
What's done is done and shouldn't reflect on your dog's future life. Make sure to have your pet thoroughly examined by a veterinarian and consult an experienced trainer if you need help addressing any puppy mill related behaviors such as crate soiling, poor socialization or resource guarding. You can find such a trainer at http://www.betterdog.com
Take Action Against Puppy Mills
Join the Humane Society of the United States in fighting puppy mills by visiting http://www.stoppuppymills.org/ to find out how you can get involved.
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A puppy mill is a business where dogs are kept and bred in large quantities specifically for the pet trade. These animals are not pets. They are often kept in cages and bred until they die. Most of their offspring are sold to pet stores, though a few may be kept for further breeding. Those that have obvious deformities or don't sell for other reasons are often destroyed or may be dumped at an animal shelter. Breeding matches are often made for appearance, if that much consideration is given and potential parents are rarely assessed with regard to health or temperament.
What is the Difference Between a Puppy Mill and a Reputable Breeder?
In contrast, most reputable breeders keep their dogs as pets, working dogs, athletes or show dogs, providing for their health and comfort, training them and giving them lots of attention. The personal attention these dogs gets allows the breeder to select for temperament, intelligence and health. Reputable breeders keep careful records and should be able to tell you not only who a puppy's mother and father are, but who their grandparents and even great grandparents are. Because of this, a breeder can identify which health issues might be a problem for the puppy in the future, if any. Reputable breeders often have their puppies tested for any possible heriditary problems. Those puppies that don't meet standards of health, appearance and temperment are usually neutered and sold at a lower cost while those who do meet these standards are sold for more and often are not neutered so that you have the option to breed them.
Because these breeders have an emotional investment in their animals, they will often make you sign a contract promising to bring your puppy back to them if you need to give him up for any reason. Reputable breeders charge more because they spend more money on preventative medicine than puppy mill breeders do. They also have fewer litters and so fewer puppies to sell because they are more concerned about the health of the mother.
Buying From Puppy Mills Hurts Millions of Dogs
Some people want to buy puppy mill puppies to save them. But in so doing they are supporting an industry thatcauses endless suffering.
* By breeding unhealthy animals, they create more unhealthy animals that may need to be put to sleep in the future by owners who have already come to love them.
* By breeding huge quantities of dogs without taking responsibility for finding them homes, they are adding to the growing problem of homeless pets. Animal shelters are already over capacity all over the country and puppy mills just add to the problem.
* Puppymill breeding methods are harmful to the health of the mother dogs, some of whom are forced to give birth three or more times a year until they die while often getting inadequate food and exercise.
While it may be heartbreaking to turn away from that puppy who needs you, there are many more in animal shelters who need you just as badly. Simple economics says that if everyone refused to buy puppy mill puppies, the industry would crumble. Faced with dozens of unwanted and unsaleable puppies, puppy mill operators would soon be seeking another line of work and those puppies would most likely end up in the shelter for you to adopt anyway.
Puppy Mill Puppies Often Have Serious Health and Behavior Problems
As a trainer, I have learned to identify puppy mill puppies by the behavioral challenges they present. Many puppies bred in puppy mills display psychological issues related to their early upbringing and because these are often beyond the scope of normal puppy behavior, they can be a challenge to address.
One of the most common issues is "dirty dog" syndrome. This is a dog that has not developed the natural inclination to keep his den clean. If a puppy is born in a cage and kept in a cage through his early development, he, his mother, and his litter mates are all forced to soil their den and soon get used to it. It becomes a normal behavior. Later when this puppy goes home with his new owner, housebreaking can be very difficult because most housebreaking methods depend on the natural desire that all dogs have for a nice, clean den. Once this has been essentially beaten out of a dog, it's very hard to get back.
Because a puppy mill breeder's main interest is producing and selling lots of puppies, their puppies may be taken away from their mother too soon. If a puppy is taken from his mother and siblings before he is at least 8 weeks old, he does not learn important skills of doggy etiquette. These dogs often do not have bite inhibition- an important skill that his mother would have taught him if she had the chance. This means that the puppy will not have the sense that his bite can hurt people by accident. Puppies often use their mouths during play. Dogs who never learned bite inhibition can seriously hurt other dogs and people without meaning to. The law prohibits the transport of puppies for sale at less than 56 days of age, but the sooner a mother is relieved of her puppies, the sooner she will be ready to breed again.
Because puppy mill breeders keep their dogs in cages they often must share with several other dogs. This can lead to competition for food and space causing puppies to develop resource aggression later in life and to be fearful of other dogs. They can also be fearful of humans since they have limited contact with their human caretakers at important developmental stages.
Puppy mill breeders sell their puppies to pet stores through dealers and health histories of their puppies and their parents are often unavailable. Those who show obvious problems are destroyed or surrendered and the people who buy their siblings are not warned about possible issues. Often breeder females are repeatedly bred even after they have shown signs of illness and this can have an effect on the physical and mental development of their pups.
How Can I be Sure I Don't Buy from a Puppy Mill?
Never buy from a pet store, flea market or webstore. Most pet stores obtain their puppies from puppy mills because it's cheaper and because most reputable breeders will not sell their puppies through a pet store- they want to meet the people they are selling to. Some pet stores feature dogs from animal shelters and this is a great opportunity to adopt a homeless animal. (If they make this claim, they should be able to tell you what shelter they are representing and they should provide you with that shelter's adoption application form. If in doubt, call the shelter to verify what the pet store is telling you.) If you want to be absolutely sure that your purchase isn't supporting puppy mills, go to your local animal shelter. If you are looking for a specific breed, they can refer you to a breed-specific rescue organization.
Ask to see your puppy's parents. If available, ask to examine their pedigrees. Handle the dogs to get an idea if they are used to human handling and that they appear healthy. Dogs who are not used to human handling may have been purchased just for breeding purposes.
Ask to see the area where your puppy and his parents live. If it is dirty, outdoors or separate from the rest of the family, use great caution. Puppies who are used to living in dirty conditions or outdoors can have housebreaking issues.
If the breeder claims that the puppies have had shots or have seen a veterinarian, ask for verification on paper. Everyone makes this claim. You want proof. Your vet will want to add this to your puppy's medical record. If you are in any doubt at all, call the veterinarian to verify the validity of the documents you are provided.
Visit The Humane Society's Puppy Buyer's Guide for more information.
What if I Have Already Bought a Puppy Mill Dog?
What's done is done and shouldn't reflect on your dog's future life. Make sure to have your pet thoroughly examined by a veterinarian and consult an experienced trainer if you need help addressing any puppy mill related behaviors such as crate soiling, poor socialization or resource guarding. You can find such a trainer at http://www.betterdog.com
Take Action Against Puppy Mills
Join the Humane Society of the United States in fighting puppy mills by visiting http://www.stoppuppymills.org/ to find out how you can get involved.
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